원정 개요

BC at Lhonak
ABC on broken (Chhyctundonga) glacier moraine near south of point 5679 on HMG map
Biv at top of South Face at SW Ridge in snowhole
High point on SW Ridge.

To acclimatize for Janak, they climbed Dzanye just west of Janak on a SW couloir which leads almost directly to summit; down West Ridge but became very steep and moved over to South Face 200m below top; even here had to rappel 350m. Climbed mountain on 12 Oct from Janak BC starting 10 Oct and in 2 bivs scaled mountain. 1st biv at 5610m [had cook boy, Girmi Dorje Sherpa, carry loads to 1st biv, 12 km from BC (and left) members there] on Tisisima Glacier on moraine just southeast of point 5666m on HMG map; 11th climbed glacier of Dzanye to 6200m and 2nd biv, 3 km from 1st biv in direction to SSE Face. 12th down 150m to bottom of couloir on SSE Face and up couloir to West Ridge at 6770m and thence to top 6820m - couloir 50-55 degrees ice; then to the 1st biv, 13th to BC; had already pitched ABC to acclimatize.

To Janak and to ABC on 18 Oct.


Lindsay Griffin - May 2006

It is almost certain that the acclimatization peak climbed by the Stremfelj party was Lashar I, not Dzanye Peak. Andrej Stremfelj agrees with this assessment.