원정 개요

Sasaki - 7 Jan 83

BC 3 Dec 5350m
C1 10 Dec 6000m
C2 13 Dec 6650m
C3 18 Dec 7400m
C4 22 Dec 7900m

1st summit attack 23 Dec. Kato alone from C4 to 8100m. 2nd attack Kato and Kobayashi left C4 together on 27 Dec. Kato on summit 3:55 pm. Kobayashi reached 8800m - biv near south summit. Only 4 Sherpas above BC including sirdar Pemba Norbu.

No other accident or frostbite. Kobayashi frostbite not a problem.

They could not have moved against wind and they bivouacked before they became exhausted since oxygen finished and little food (oxygen finished by 9:00 pm radio call). Would have been Ok in am of 28 Dec if no big wind blew them away. Wind blew C2 tent 10m down with Sasaki in it.

Oxygen used from C3 upwards except Kobayashi carried supplies to C4 without oxygen; used oxygen for sleeping in C4.

Icefall avalanche that scared French Everest expedition into changing route was not so big; just little serac collapse.

Kobayashi said Everest normal route easiest climb of 8000er he'd experienced; just wind and cold were obstacles.


Sasaki - 6 Jan 83

Kato and Kobayashi not seen after going on summit attack 27 Dec. 27/28 Dec all night snow falling from 10:00 pm to early morning and lost contact 9:00 pm. Only after that Nawang Yonden who went South Col noon on 28 Dec and saw footprints/track above. He did not go above Col: no oxygen, strong wind and very cold and all members say came down. Came down to C3 (C4 below Geneva Spur 7900m too windy) arrive C3 3:30 pm after 2 hours on Col looking for same thing but he could not find "I think night time finished." very strong wind blowing and I sleeping and my tent in C2 blown out with Sasaki in it.

23 Dec 1st attack plan: Kato first try alone, 2nd time Kobayashi also because Kato feel same complaint alone, cannot carry so much baggage and expected biv. Took stove and biv tent and French regulator but not found full oxygen bottles. Kobayashi weaker than Kato so unable go top but reached above South Summit maybe 8800m. Kobayashi had some frostbite but not specified how much and where no further rescue: not enough oxygen, went so fast not fully acclimatized including most Sherpas.

Kato could not stand on top more than few minutes because very strong wind - tripod see? no report.

I very sad about Kato and Kobayashi, when Sasaki went with twice Dhaulagiri I 1978 and Annapurna I 1982 if not strong wind, they back to C4 easy. No snow problem on mountain because so much snow blown away by wind. I think wind from Tibet blow Kato and Kobayashi down SW Face. No search for bodies in later season.

Today working near Lobuche at 4800-4900m stone pile with stone plaque by Pangboche stone mason, same place as other memorials to Everest climbers who died.

Sasaki reached 7500m during expedition.


Sharma, Tourism - 1 Jan 83

2 members including Sasaki, 1 photographer and 1 journalist, LO and same Sherpas left BC this am. 3 Japanese and 7 Sherpas still at BC area and to arrive KTM 12 Jan.

Kato and Kobayashi disappeared and no more contact with expedition.


Sharma, Tourism - 31 Dec 82

Sasaki and 2 others Japanese arrive KTM 5 Jan. All members and Sherpas now in BC. All return to BC yesterday evening except Kato and Kobayashi.

Today 2 members and 3 Sherpas to C1 to clean C1 and return to BC. C2 and C3 already cleared but left everything intact in C4: oxygen, food, sleeping bags. Today last day on mountain. Tomorrow 3 Japanese and 7 Sherpas leave BC to arrive KTM 5 Jan.

No aerial search requested by expedition. No report of Kato and Kobayashi sighted or heard from since Monday 9 pm, as of 11:00 am today's radio by LO at BC.


Sharma, Tourism - 30 Dec 82

Kato and Kobayashi: At 10:00 am 27 Dec Kato contacted C2 and said reached 8400m and Kobayashi is trailing behind him. At 11:00 am Kato told C2 he was at 8500m. At 1:50 pm he told C2 he was at South Summit 8763m. At 7:50 pm Kato told C2 and C3 Kobayashi could not reach summit but Kato had done so and had returned.

"I met Kobayashi here. I reached the summit and came back to this point. Kobayashi's hands and feet are frostbitten. My health conditions is excellent."

At 11:00 am said he had seen a body. At 7:50 pm Sasaki's at C2 told Kato he Sasaki will send Nawang Yonden Sherpa to receive them on 28th morning. Kato replied "our health condition is good. We are comfortable and you should not send him." At 9:00 am Kato told C2: "It is very cold now here. I will not contact again tonight, only tomorrow morning, good night." Since then no contact has been made.

28th Dec Nawang Yonden sent to South Col to see whether Kato and Kobayashi coming down. He could see footsteps at Col but did not see Kato and Kobayashi. At Col between 9:00 and 10:00 am and went to C4 and slept there that night from 28th 10:00 am till 29th evening was hurricane - like wind above C2.

Today 30 Dec LO and remaining members feel Kato and Kobayashi might have been frozen to death because of shortage of oxygen during Monday night. They have decided not to search further. All members and Sherpas coming to BC today. Nawang Yonden in C3.

Jan 1 start evacuating BC
2 members will stay at BC
3-4 days longer
Sasaki told us (Kato and Kobayashi) they are no more.

Ministry of Tourism expressed deep sorrow at his diappearance of noted Asian climber and foremost climber of the world Kato, who was very cooperative to this ministry and NMA, came to Nepal, also sorry about Kobayashi.


Okuwara - 29 Dec 82

Still no contact with Kato. C4 has highest food and oxygen. When Kato left C2 had oxygen and French oxygen regulater and knew plenty of oxygen bottles above South Col.

At BC today snowing heavily, -15 degrees and wind not strong. Probably cannot see summit. BC no comment regarding death.


Sharma, Tourism

LO: Today's weather bad, no one has gone up today for search. This evening members consulting via walkie-talkie and if weather good tomorrow will go up.

Kato took gas stove from C2, also oxygen.


Sharma

"I think there is still chance Kato will come down being experience climber and having very good stamina and no shortage of oxygen above South Col. I think he is trying to rescue Kobayashi so that is why he has not come to C4. Rescuing Kobayashi because he had frostbite and his condition worse. I believe today he Kato is still alive but not sure about Kobayashi.

No information regarding biv equipment.
Next radio contact is 11:00 am tomorrow


Sharma, Tourism - 28 Dec 82

Yesterday Kato reached summit at 3:55 pm. He came to biv site near South Summit at 7:00 pm and met there Kobayashi there (Kobayashi's highest point) and because dark and cold bived there. Last nigth very windy and snowfall on Everest.

Message relayed at 7:30 pm to C2 and to BC 8:30 pm. No further contact from Kato.

C2 tent blown away this morninng by more wind but no one hurt - Yoshima Sajaki was in tent but not hurt.

No further details available. Next KTM-BC radio at 1:00 pm.


Sharma, Tourism - 5 Dec 82

BC established 3 Dec 5400m. This morning Kato and 2 other members left BC to go into Icefall.


Kato - 23 Nov 82

Sasaki maybe today to Lukla and Kato tomorrow.
BC established about 28-29 Nov.

Maybe 4 camps above BC. If bad weather maybe C3 at 7500m (bad weather = wind), otherwise C4 at 8100m is above Col to avoid its winds.

Route up Lhotse face = normal route. "From South Col to summit not so difficult - only walking, but in winter very difficult. If French want normal route my party success first. My party finish then okay hope to climb Everest in Dec this winter.

60% chance of success by this expedition. "First plan was to climb above. My powers very strong powers and alone is best but intentions very difficult so if weather good and my condition is good maybe I go alone from final camp" or maybe with others. C3 to top very long way and maybe Kato alone carry 3 oxygen bottles @7.5 Kg.

Uemura was very strong but his team is not strong and Uemuras not climbing alone. This season no success where Kato can succeed.

Nakamura K2 summiter and in Kato's party to 8600m on Everest 1980, very strong. Kobayashi also very strong: Dhaulagiri summiter and also 1980 Everest North Face attack party hit by avalanche (went to 8500m when avalanche hit).

Sasaki and Seikizaki on K2 on north side as support members, not so strong as Kato, Nakamura and Kobayashi, but strong.

Summit on Xmas = hope.

Plans final push to summit to start at night: if from C3 at 10:00 pm, midnight, if from C4 also at night. No biv: 20-25 hours C3 to top to C3 moving continually and on oxygen. Impossible to sleep in last camp anyway. At night wind not so strong. Have special equipment and clothing for winter including warm helmets that came down low over ears.

Kato now at Yellow Pagoda; on return to KTM at Express House.