원정 개요

The expedition made no attempt to climb the West Ridge. After giving up an attempt to climb the SW Face, they crossed into Tibet and tried the North Col-North Ridge route. The highest point reached on the unauthorized northern route.

27th Nov Batard and Audoubert to site of C2 at 6500m in Cwm, saw SW Face all black and reported to BC face had no snow and icefall in very dangerous condition. Expedition asked for permit for W Ridge which they got.

Meanwhile established new C1 at Lho La. Had no intention to attempt W Ridge because strong winds in Dec; intended to go to N Col. Sherpas refused W Ridge climb (too cold for so-so Sherpas) and were told to carry loads to pully and sleep at BC, so members were alone at Lho La and beyond. Highest point reached on N Ridge, 7600m, half an hour beyond where snow gave way to mixed snow and rock in afternoon 20 Dec. 22nd Batard and Audoubert reached 7520m and 23rd to same place. All to BC 24th for Xmas. 27th from Lho La to rescue climb by 4 members but same day Bourgeois became sick from altitude sickness, disappeared between turning back and reaching C1. After 3 days search, 4 returned to C2 but wind too strong and cleared camp. 4 members without sleeping time again.


Metzger - 1 Oct 88

Did not attempt West Ridge. Went from Lho La and from this only 5 hours to North Col (with good acclimatization). Had 1 tent and 1 cave at North Col and stayed there 1 week. Reached 7600m on N Ridge and then saw a tent ahead but very windy on ridge. Metzger slept 4-5 nights at North Col.

7600m reached by Metzger
7500m reached Batard and Audoubert both times stopped by wind.


Metzger - 14 Jan 83

For Bourgeois to descend to C1 way was not difficult and when Jean said preferred return to C1 at 6000m because had headache - were 4: Ghilini, De Blanchard, Metzger and Bourgeois going to C2 at 7000m. Metzger agreed he should go alone for 1 hours descent. Bourgeois at 10:00 am [on Dec 27] left the other 3 at about 6200-6300m. Metzger watched him descend for 1/2 hour well and so not worried. Reached C2 about 12:30 and had lunch. At 2:00 pm called C1 and friend Pierre Steiner who had come up from BC said Bourgeois not there at C1. So 3 descended immediately to point last seen. Steiner camp up from C1 to place where can see his crampons tracks on hard snow and reached all crevasses there and looked down the side.

That night stayed at C1. No search in moonlight because impossible. Again searched on 31 Dec same area despite bad wind making impossible stand and same next day. 2 Jan went to C2 and brought down all gear to C1.

BC about 5450m. All down finally 4 Jan evening. "We thought it was possible to go to Tibet but without food and sleeping bag, we thought he was dead."

Kato - when got down from summit was worst for wind and at C1 was -33 degrees C in evening. I think he was higher and when you slip from this place its not the same thing." I think they are finished.

Regarding our expedition at first thought to continue climb but then with Bourgeois gone and wind blowing open blanket of C1 icehole every one thought Bourgeois coming back and could not sleep and gave up.

7700m highest point, before Xmas about 21 Dec.


Bourgeois - 14 Jan 83

Said goodbye knowing had cerebral edema because wanted his friends to continue to summit. Metzger had offered to go with him. Headache got worse and worse, had nausea lost balance and fell down. On Nepal side would have been dead but on Tibetan side fell less than 100m distance. Not hurt by fall but shocked (maybe lost consciousness briefly) and having edema. Only 2 solutions: 1) go up to C1 where was oxygen but too exhausted to go up: 2) go lower and lower in direction of Rongbuk glacier, which did, hoping to find monastery where could rest and get food. Spent night amongst rocks on glacier. Next afternoon reached ruined monastery. Now not possible to go back though health improved but balance not good. Left monastery and walked 2nd day and 2nd night. In am of 1 Jan reached village at dawn. There Tibetans gave tea and Tsampa. "It was a good New Year for this morning." Continued down same day alone and at night slept in little house in little village where Tibetans gave food (tsampa and food). Morning of 5th day 3rd Jan, reached first town Shigar on East-West road and became chief guest of ag. who gave bed and food. In town they telephoned to Shigatse and next day 4 Jan sent in Japanese to Shigatse where met Chinese officials and shared room with 2 Chinese and was free to walk around town and Tibetan who spoke perfect English as interpreter. PSB phoned Lhasa and Peking.