원정 개요

BC at usual site.

Route can be steep and requires much care in snow.

Yoshino seen 9 Oct and his body found - fell. Kamuro not seen after 8 Oct and body not found.


Takahashi & Yamada - 24 Oct 83
Japanese Lhotse Expedition

Yeti Dojin Everest expedition member Sawagami used oxygen in C2 on his descent because he was in "no good condition." Sure about Sawagami because they helped him and he used Lhotse expedition oxygen.

Endo biv site very dangerous because very cold and very windy. Coming down next day on his legs but on laboriously. Ang Tshering went up met at 8300m and helped him down.

Yashima and Kamura last year biv at 8350m on K2 and very lucky, no wind and in good condition, but lost same fingertips from frostbite. On return to C2 by Endo and may be Sawagami used oxygen on Everest.


Endo - 21 Oct 83

C4 at South Col. Highest 3:00 am on 8 Oct all 4 climbing members left C4 met 2 members and 1 Sherpa of Sangaku Doshikai (SD) team at 8100m at 4:00 am: Endo started first from 8100m followed by SD team Kawamura and Suzuki, Pasang Temba Sherpa, next Kamuro, Yoshino and Sawagami. All 7, next 3 Americans at 8500m and Americans went on up. Sawagami stopped going up when at 8800m because was exhausted and reached C4 same day.

Pasang Temba also reached 8600m and then down because exhausted Americans saw him falling at 8600m and were last to see him alive. Body not found but seen to be falling down SW Face.

Endo at S Summit at 2:00 pm waiting for Yoshino and Kamuro and at that time 2 members went ahead to summit. Yoshino and Kamuro joined him at 2:30 pm and all 3 continued up and all 3 met Americans at Hillary Step. After SD team reached summit, 10 minutes later Endo on top at 4:30 pm and Yoshino and Kamuro 4:50 pm on top. Endo waited at top and then little below while they went to top.

SD two went down first after Endo: they had met on top. Then Yoshino and Kamuro of Yeti Dogin descended. Endo met Yoshino and Kamuro about 50m below summit and 3 down. At South Summit because dark when Endo arrived at about 6:00 pm alone and decided to biv below South Summit and back towards main summit he had seen Yoshino and Kamuro at Hillary Step when almost dark. Expected Yoshino and Kamuro to join him - bivouacked at 6:30 pm. Thinks Yoshino and Kamuro bivouacked just below Hillary Step Endo slept for 8 hours, woke up at 6:00 hours.

9 Oct - 6:00 am Endo began decent from biv site. Saw Yoshino at 6:10 am fastening boots just below Hillary Step and waited near S Summit for Yoshino for 1 hour and then again started down too exhausted to go up in search. Reached C4 that day at noon.

10 Oct Endo at 10:00 am left C4 and reached C2. Thought he would die.

11 Oct found Yoshino body by sirdar at 6300m. Must have fallen 2000m down SW Face. Body spotted by crows being overhead. Body identified by SD and brought to C2 (identified by having toes) where put into crevasse. Kamuro's body not found, might be at bottom of SW Face.

SD summiters biv at 8300m on 8 Oct - one Ok, 1 frostbite

9 Oct Konishi and 1 Sherpa tried for summit but no success.
Endo, Dr and Sawagami arrived KTM today.

SD all arrive today.
Takahashi and Yamada also came today from Lhotse.

Mrs Schmatz and Kato and Kobayashi not seen.
Endo Ok, no frostbite.