원정 개요

BC at usual site.

3 Americans from E Face first met at 8500m as both parties going up. Americans on oxygen went faster and again met bottom of Hillary Step as they were coming down from 2:00 pm summit (2 hours) very slowly (no oxygen but fixing rope at Step). Bivouacked at 8400m at 7:00 pm with small biv tent and fuel or stove and pan for heating snow.

9 Oct Konishi and Ang Nima left C4 for top, but reached S Summit at 4:00 pm very late and very tired. Bivouacked at 8500m at 6:00 pm also with biv tent, etc left by 1st summit party. Tripod and Mrs Schmatz's body not seen as expected, but not with bad ice and no good snow. Would take very long time to scale SW Face and could not start 20 Aug as planned because of delays so changed with only 1 month climbing time really available to S Pillar route (left side of Poles route) to avoid avalanche. Still C3 very dangerous place from avalanche.

Pasang Temba Sherpa of summit party turned back alone. Slipped at very easy snow field but very tired. Americans saw him fall down Nepalese side but body not found.


Takahashi & Yamada - 24 Oct 1983
(Lhotse expedition leader & climbing leader)

Japanese Everest Sangaku Doshikai team actually climbed same route as American autumn 1981 expedition to left of Geneva Spur, right of South Pillar. Not on Polish Pillar route to S Summit, but joined SE Ridge just above Col as did Americans in 1981 autumn. Climbed entirely on snow, no pillar rock.


Shrestha, Tourism - 14 Oct 1983

LO report: sent to Namche by 2nd group members.

Returned regarding missing Sherpa: at about 7950m one of his bags found and traces of his slippage seen by a Sherpa of 2nd group, so Pasang Pemba is declared dead by falling in the snow. All others are well and team scheduled reach KTM by 23 Oct.


Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism Ministry - 11 Oct 1983

Leader and 1 member of Sangaku Doshikai expedition [summited].

1) Haruichi Kawamura, born 1947 Dec
2) Shomi Suzuki, born 1953, mountain advisor, Tokyo
reached top 8 Oct at 16300 hours without oxygen (stayed 10 minutes on top)

Had left C4 with Pasang Pemba, 27, but he could not go up all the way and turned back and is missing.

Further attempt by other members "going on." Details of missing Sherpa and next attempt will be sent later.