원정 개요

BC at usual site.

Highest point reached was very nearly top of yellow band. Had climbed hard bit of band and it had started to ease of in clear weather, but wind too strong on 14 Oct (blew ropes upwards in Couloir).

By 14 Oct only Macquaries and Bibler not affected by exhaustion or frostbite and wind continued strong for 4-5 days by which time all down to Lho La and no "cough" to go back up.

W Ridge is tough and most technical part of the route is above 27,000 ft besides getting onto Lho La. "This is a hard way to try to climb Everest."


Shrestha, Tourism - 21 Oct 1983

American Everest from LO:

16 Oct because high winds all expedition activity abandoned.
23 Oct schedule to leave BC for KTM. All are well.
14 Oct 3 people left C5 5:30 am but high wind could go only (200-300 ft)
above C5 and return to C5.
15 Oct expedition studied with condition.
16 Oct decided to abandon.

Moss arrived 18 Oct

28,000 ft by Whitehouse on 14 Oct (new American women's altitude record)
4th attempt abandoned when teams resources helping 3 members to safety.


Report from Sano dated 1 Sept 1983 to Ministry of Tourism

Weather conditions have been generally good. Generally clear mornings and cloudy afternoons, lowest temperatures -5 degrees C, highest +20 degrees, wind gusts of 5 knots. Health of all members excellent.