원정 개요

All 4 summiters started 2:30 am from C4 with new type battery in headlamps giving bright lights. Started so early to be able return to C4 same day. Strong wind at col and at summit from S Summit. Ozaki saw tripod when snow near 2 oxygen bottles probably Russian.

Above Col on face saw new body at about 8200m. Not Japanese by colour of clothing which was yellow quarter blue trousers and yellow/beige - huge body, think its a man but lying flat on stomach. Did not see Mrs Schmatz.

In C2 and C3 tents and some equipment already there from Lhotse ascent in Oct 1983 and few fixed ropes between C2-C3 there too. 14 Dec 1 member and 2 Sherpas tried to put in 300m fixed ropes on SE Ridge but too strong wind changed plan to make C5. 15 Dec was to be summit day for successful team, but too much wind and spent day in C4 170 knots/hr.

Yamada left on top small cardboard from British Catholic priest via British Embassy Tokyo with message about world peace. From summit could be seen by N Face team.


Takahashi - 23 Dec 83

"Can't help" not being able to meet wife at summit [Michiko Takahashi from north side team]. Idea was difficult. Takahashi to C4 only. Exped doctor did not permit him to go higher because of heart - oldest Japanese climber to reach height of Lhotse summit. Ok if he does 2 or 3 high summits in same season, but not over longer period.