원정 개요

BC at usual location.

Prodanov summited Apr 20 on W Ridge route; descended W Ridge route (disappeared after overnight bivouac). Rescue attempt failed to find body.

2 teams of two each summited May 8 and 9 on W Ridge route; descended SE Ridge to S Col using Indian camps on descent.


Vasilev - 27 May 1984

9 Sherpas went above BC. At end of climb there were 22 Bulgarians left: 1 died, 1 evacuated by helicopter because of frostbite.

Bivouac altitude: Prodanov 8600-8700m
Iankov 8300-8400m


Bulgarian Everest press conference - 24 May 1984

Avramov:

Bad weather in general. Lot of difficult moments and difficult to decide when to mount summit attempt. Grateful for help of Indians on South Col route.

19 April with Chhowang Rinzing and Prodanov arrive C4 and early am, (about 5:45 am) on 20th left C5. After 2 hours together to 8300m according Sherpa, an empty oxygen bottle fell hit Sherpa and caused him to retreat. Prodanov went on up at 11:00 am alone. 6:15 pm he reported he already on summit with 4 empty [?] and flag of USSR expedition. Said he would bring part of flag but ropes broke (found by later summiters at summit). 8mm movie camera left by him on top and this too found by 2nd pair, but film had been taken out by Prodanov. After 33 minutes on top he descended and at 21:10 hours on radio - then he switched it off.

21st April next day he said had lost gloves and could not use his fingers. He was on radio until 5:30 pm when his voice heard for last time. Assume he died of exhaustion and exposure that evening/night.

Doskov:

Did not see tripod did not see any bodies including Prodanov - deep snow.

Prodanov spent last hours at place where rucksack and ice axe roped to rock to about 8600m expedition suppose. These seen by both summit pairs. He said he said he had left there behind taking only his ice hammer. Climbed only on ridge - maybe 1 meter on Chinese side but very dangerous and stayed on right side of ridge.

Avramov:

2nd summit group started early am and very slow in climb in deep snow. Very late on top 5:18 pm, so down same route not able to reach C5 and asked Indians if Ok in emergency to use SE Ridge. Next pair did traverse in order to help first pair. Also traversed to search for Prodanov's body as he might have descended SE Ridge in his confusion.

Difficult to measure cooperation but we tried to help Indians when they needed help: Bulgarians left oxygen bottles and walkie-talkies.


Kalayanov - 24 May 1984

Yankov to 8500m on 21 April at 9:00 pm when was ordered to descend and went to about 8300m where very steep very bad rock and spent night there in sleeping bag for Prodanov - talked to him all night to keep him awake. 22nd weather worse, C4 and C5 tents damaged. Yankov saw rucksack of Prodanov so it must be below 8500m and Yankov brought down ice axe. Yankov used oxygen on 21st and 22nd.

Prodanov left his oxygen mask in BC and never used oxygen. Survived more than 50 hours above 8000m.

8th May summit pair used oxygen. They were on summit 5:15 pm and bivouacked there unprepared for this biv in a crevasse beginning about 8:00 pm.

10 May 1st pair very exhausted (saw man riding bike). Started down and Valtchev met by Phu Dorjee who reported to 2nd pair that a Bulgarian was unconscious. 2nd pair on top they thought at 9:00 am in fog. Then at 100m realized had not been on actual summit and went back up and were on top about 10:15 am. Down SE Ridge and met Phu Dorjee at South Summit, Savov just below South Summit unconscious. Saved his life with oxygen and they roped him in middle and started down. Valtchev moved alone to C4 at 4:00 pm and others at 4:30 pm including Phu Dorjee. 4 Bulgarians and 4 Indian team in C4 that night 10 May. All 4 Bulgarians had been climbing on oxygen.

Djambazov and Dolaptchiev went to Indian C2 8 or 9 May and 11 May went up. Djambazov went to Indian C3 while Dolaptchiev met 3 Bulgarians summiters descending (Valtchev stayed all alone at C4) between C3 and C2. Djambazov on 11th late afternoon went up to meet figure descending from Col and met after dark and other reached C3. Others descending on 11th stayed in Indian C2. All continued descent.

4th summit party of Vasilev and Dermaljiev reached Bulgarian C4 9 May. Dermaljiev snowblind in evening so unable to move. They spent 10th May in C4 and down on 11th May. Then expedition ended.

Valtchev and Savov doubted whether to go up or down. Looked at Hornbein Couloir, found too much snow there and decided to continue up W Ridge. This was about where Russian joined Ridge from SW Face.


Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism Ministry - 10 May 1984

8 May Savov and Valtchev descended from top 17:38 hours. After 2 hours reached South Summit. Could not reach Indian C5 and spent all night at South Summit. Had 2 oxygen bottles and 1 burner - were exhausted.

9th May Savov and Valtchev started down towards South Col early am. Fog thick making descent difficult.

Petkov and Doskov at 3:00 started to summit from W Ridge C5 and 9:11 am they thought they were at top, in fog and started descending. After little descent fog cleared and realized mistake and started up again and reached true top 10:08 am. Found 8mm camera left by Prodanov. Were told by BC that Savov and Valtchev were in summit area. Started descent of SE Ridge and at 10:45 am met Phu Dorjee at South Summit while Phu Dorjee going up. Meanwhile Savov and Valtchev trying to find way to South Col, moving very slowly because exhaustion and heavy fog. Valtchev lost Savov and saw 2 persons 100m below him (probably Rita Gombu and Ang Dorje) and tried to go to them. Valtchev descending with great difficulty.

At 10:55 Doskov and Petkov found Savov 30m below South Summit very exhausted. With lot of oxygen succeeded get Savov down slowly in fog. At 13:50 hours reached C5 of Indian expedition and melted snow for liquid. Phu Dorjee came to C5 from summit and met 3 Bulgarians - he also was exhausted. These 4 started down at 15:40 hours reached C4 of Col. Half hour earlier Valchev arrived C4.

4 Bulgarians in good condition, given food drink and oxygen by Indians.
2 more Bulgarians in C4 today. Weather cloudy and snowfall in BC.


Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism Ministry - 9 May 1984

2 members Valtchev and Savov reached top at 17:15 hurs yesterday. At top heavy snow and fog. At 17:38 hours started descend. 2 hours later reached 8780m SE Ridge and spent night just below South Summit.

Today at 10:08 hours other 2 members Petkov an Doskov reached top and are helping earlier 2, Savov and Vachev at 8700m. Whether helping to descend or not, not known. Use of oxygen by these four men not known nor whether seen Prodanov.

2 more Bulgarians started from BC yesterday to climb South Col route - Kontcho Dolapchiev and Trifon Djambazov.


Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism - 8 May 1984

Yesterday Ivan Valtchev, 37, and Metodi Savov, 37, reached C5 and spent last night there. This morning they left C5 at 3:20 am towards top. 9:10 am reported they were just a little bit above 8500m. Started with oxygen.

No further details. No further contact or no clear contact - no communication from them.


Banskota, Tourism - 6 May 1984

Started up from BC in 5 groups for last 2 days. 2 reached C5 yesterday and 1 return to C5 yesterday. Today 2 members and 3 Sherpas from C4 to C5 and 2 members will stay at C5.


Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism Ministry - 22 April 1984

Yesterday 3 members and Chhowang Rinzi went to C5 from C4. 1 member Yankov reached 300m above C5 and because of nightfall spent night there. Today 8:45 am return to C5 lost contact with Prodanov was 19:45 yesterday when his voice very difficult to understand at BC but BC man says it is very clear he lost one glove and therefore difficult to push walkie-talkie radio. Prodanov said "I see nobody to rescue me." After that no further contact till 9:00 am today.

Today the 3 Bulgarians and Rinzi return to C4 because of bad weather and unable to move up.

BC snow falling this am, cloudy above 6000m, C4 and C5 high wind.


Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism Ministry - 21 April 1984

Lost contact with Prodanov was last night 9:10 pm (revised time). He stopped going down and searching for place for night biv.

Today 10:24 am BC members heard very weak signal from Prodanov's radio - was pushing button but not speaking to BC. Estimated he was between 8300m-8500m. BC says he may be in critical condition without oxygen and very cold.

BC started urgent operation to save him. Yankov and Djambazov started to climb quickly from C4 to C5 this morning after weak signal carrying oxygen.

Chhowang down to C4 today and up to C5 with oxygen. Valtchev going up with oxygen C3 to C4.

Petkov and 2 others Bulgarians reached C2 and going to C3 today as part of this operation from BC to C1 members with medical aid. Asked whether helicopter can go to C1 6050m until 2:30 pm Prodanov still pushing button.


Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism Ministry - 21 April 1984

Last night at 10:21 last contact made with Prodanov from BC. At that time he was on 8500m. He said he would biv somewhere in that area because of darkness. Until now 9:00 am no contact. Today 3 Bulgarian members going from C4 to C5 and 4 Bulgarians from C3 to C4 - why not said. Next contact 2:00 pm.


Press Release

The Bulgarian Everest 1984 Expedition, consisting of 24 members and led by Avram Avramov (46) completed the second ascent of the West Ridge. The Bulgarians established BC in mid March and quickly placed 5 camps, at 6050m, 6770m, 7170m and 8120m, the last on Aprl 19. On April 20th the strong climber Christo left C5 at 5:45 am for the summit accompanied by Rinzi Sherpa. He turned back after he had been "hit by a falling oxygen bottle." Prodanov decided to continue alone without bottled oxygen. It was a hazardous decision - from C5 he had to climb 750m of steep ridge. After a struggle up the ridge, at 6:10 pm, Prodanov reached the top. He was the first man to climb the West Ridge alone and without oxygen and the first person to scale this summit in April as spring ascents have been made in May. Descending Prodanov hit trouble between 8500m and 8300m. Exhausted and deteriorating he spent the night without gear, food, drink and oxygen and lost his gloves. The last BC contact with Prodanov was next day at 6-7:45 pm. "I see nobody to rescue me," he said in his last feeble radio message.

High winds and bad weather prevented efficient rescue efforts. Solo Ludmil Yankov (26) reached 8400m but could not find Prodanov, who may have died on April 21 or 22.

Despite the mishap, the team tried to put more men on the top. On May 1st the second attack began from BC. On May 7th Camp 5 was equipped with food and 11 bottles of oxygen. Next day Metodi Savov (37) and Ivan Valtchev (37) started their summit bid. Deep dry snow slowed the ascent. At 17.15 (5.15 pm) they reached the top. The descent was made via the less difficult SE Ridge. Just below the 8765m South Summit they were exhausted and spent the night without a tent or oxygen, although they had used oxygen, whilst ascending. During the night Savov's toes were frostbitten. Next morning the two climbers became separated in thich fog on the descent.

Meanwhile at 10:10 am the top was reached by two Sofia students - Nikolai Petkov and Kiril Doskov. They also descended the southeast route. They caught up with Savov who was in an exhausted condition 30m below the South Summit and helped him down using oxygen from the Indian expedition. At 13:50 pm they reached the Indian Camp 5 where Valtchev was waiting. They were helped by the Indians at the South Col then continued the descent together, reaching BC in 2 and 1/2 days. On May 12, Savov was airlifted from BC to KTM by helicopter, and on May 13 the party left the region.

The two pairs made the first traverse of the full West Ridge-SE Ridge and the second traverse. Savov and Valtchev survived an open bivouac at some 8600-8700m.

Christo Ivanov Prodanov, meritious sports champion and deputy leader of the Bulgarian Everest Expedition, died on April 21st 1984 after making the first ascent of Everest in April and the West Ridge Ridge without oxygen.

He was born in Karlovo on Feb 24th and graduated in metallurgy. In 24 years he made major ascents in the Caucasus, Alps and Dolomites, including the Petit Dru by the Bonatti Pillar, the Walker Spur, Freney Buttress (1969) and Matterhorn North Face in extremely severe conditions and the Petit Dru by the Guides Rotue (1977).