원정 개요

BC at usual site.

9th May was 1st attempt; three set out from C5 at 6:45 am (Phu Dorjee, Ang Dorje and Rita Gombu) and Ang Dorje and Rita Gombu reached 100m below South Summit when at about 8:00 am. Ang Dorje's feet very cold and he feared frostbite. Phu Dorjee was 100 ft above them in high winds (70-80 km). Rita Gombu decided to turn back in winds. Phu Dorjee on top at 12:30 pm (without oxygen from last 200m only). All slept on Col that night. Phu Dorjee overtook Bulgarians at about 10:15 am and Indians put up 1st Bulgarians team at Col camp and brought Metodi Savov to C2, etc, spending 2 days Indian manpower resources.

2nd attempt was Nima Dorje (ND) Sherpa's party at col for May 9th attempt, but Bachendri Pal got to Col late and Bulgarians needed help, so Khullar called it off.

3rd attempt by Palzor, Lathoo, Rekha Sharma and Rattan Singh, latter fearing frostbite turned back, winds prevented on early start 16 May and avalanche of 15/16 May hit 4th summit party and required rescue. 4th party was ND Sherpa, Lobsang Tshering and Bachendri Pal.

5th party went to top from Col. Its final membership was determined at Col and were the 4 summiters of 23 May.

1 Sherpa killed by avalanche in Icefall from Lho La on 26 March and cremated. Rai kitchen boy died of altitude sickness on 28 March while only one advance party man was at BC and he descending to Lobuche alone.

Avalanche ice blocks of 15/16 May midnight buried C3 and of 3 members and 7 Sherpas, 3 Sherpas seriously injured (Bachendri was there). Rekha Sharma fell in crevasse in Icefall but 3 days later was back in C1. No frostbite at all.


Khullar - 5 June 1984

Three bodies seen by Everest expedition on the mountain:

1) At bottom of SW Face: upper torso bare skin and bone, dark brown hair perhaps shoulder length or shorter - definitely that of a woman. C2 cook Ang Tshering said he removed wrist watch. Khullar buried remains under pile of stones.

2) On SW Face at about 22,000 ft, 200 ft above bergschrund spread-eagled body, flat on face, red jacket, black hair - rather prominently visable.

3) On face between S Pillar and SE Ridge at about 28,000 ft (just above Indians C5). Tall figure apparently recent victim - easily seen.


Sarin - 2 June 1984 (press conference)

Bachendri Pal is first single woman to top of Everest
Ang Dorje is first man to go to top with woman twice
Rita Gombu reached 100m short of South Summit
Phu Dorjee started without oxygen 100m below South Summit, rare to carry on
top when oxygen stops.
Palzor without oxygen from top throughout descent
No member had any experience of Nepal mountains

Bachendri Pal:

Took to summit start of Durga and Indian Flag. Left statue there after prayers and flag on it brought ice (now water) and stone from summit.

Lhatoo and Ang Dorje found top of Chinese tripod. Lhatoo found pouch containing a photo of man with inscriptions.

Khullar:

Near C2 body found with little skin, long dark hair, no clothing, at 21,800 ft. Another body 27,000 ft, 100m below South Summit, blue jacket.

Was slower than others when carrying 2 oxygen bottles. Dumped one and caught up then had another problem - descended with the others.

Had prayed for a year for Everest and will continue to do so "as Buddhist considers highest peak sacred." Was inspired by fellow Ladakhi who went to top in 1965.

6 am made 3 attempts to go top that did not succeed. One was in C3 when avalanche struck. 1st attempt was on 5 May. Logistics prevented more successes after the two.

Expedition not ready to recon thru Icefall until 5-6 April after avalanche. 10 days delay by avalanche of March 26th. All of May was good weather and 23 May was best of all.

4 women reached South Col - this a record.

Rekha Sharma's party called down from Col, thus being prevented from going to top because support below diverted to evacuation of Sherpa with broken leg from C3 after avalanche struck, winds were preventing them to go up after 1st night at Col and should not stay longer.


Rekha Sharma - 2 June 1984

Khullar was just as weak and unassertive on the climb as he is in KTM. Supply problems were considerable - "it was just chaos."


Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism Ministry - 16 May 1984

C3 hit by avalanche 00:35 hours, ND Sherpa and 3 Nepalese Sherpas (no names) hit and seriously injured. Lobsang Tshering and Bachendri Pal escaped unharmed; some other Nepal Sherpas minor injury and shock.

Summit party: Rekha, Lhatoo, Rattan Singh and Sonam Palzor called back from South Col to C2. At 11:45 am leader told them to come to C2. Had not started up from Col. Left Col at 12:00 to come down.

RO helicopter rescue tomorrow am from BC for ND Sherpa and 2 of Nepal Sherpas who will reach BC today. 1 of these Sherpas has fractured leg moving to C1 from C2 and will not be available for helicopter.

ND Sherpa has ribs injured and 2 injured Nepal Sherpas head injuries.


Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism Ministry - 15 May 1984

Lhatoo, Rattan Singh, Rekha and Palzor reached South Col today and tomorrow hope to go for top from Col another team reached C3.

Entire expedition leaves BC 27 May.


Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism Ministry - 10 May 1984

Prem Chand, Bissa, Aitward Pal, Lhatoo, Dorjee and Ratan Singh to BC today.
Phu Dorjee, Rita Gombu and Ang Dorje coming to C2 from South Col today with 4 Bulgarians.

Yesterday at 10:45 am Phu Dorjee going up met 2 Bulgarians Savov and Valtchev coming down from summit (Bulgarians ahd gone up via W Ridge but down SE Ridge).


Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism Ministry - 9 May 1984

No contact with summit and South Col parties since this morning.
Leader is in C2 and at C2 and BC keeping radio open.
Weather at BC partly cloudy.
Next contact at 4:00 pm today with KTM.


Banskota, Tourism Ministry - 9 May 1984

Phu Dorjee climbed alone to Everest top 12:30 today without oxygen after South Summit. At present at South Col in good physical condition. Rita Gombu and Ang Dorje reached South Summit but descended after oxygen complication. They are also in South Col camp.

Phu Dorjee met Bulgarian summiters - where when and how many not stated.
Weather at BC cloudy.


Banskota, Tourism Ministry- 6 May 1984

3 summit parties left BC yesterday - these people will attempt top via Col
1st party: Prem Chand
Miss Rita Gombu
Sirdar Ang Dorje
2nd: Phu Dorjee
Miss Chandra
3rd: N. D. Sherpa (Indian)
Magar
Miss Bachendri Pal
Lobsang Tshering


Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism Ministry - 6 May 1984

Bulgarian and Indian Everest teams jointly requested HMG permission for 2 Indian members to use W Ridge. Members to use South Col route both up and down (not traverse). Requested 3 May and granted 4 May.

Indians to send Lhatoo Dorje and Rattan Singh via W Ridge. Bulgarians to send Kantcho Kantchev Dolaptchiev and Trifon Ivanov Djambazov via South Col.


Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism Ministry - 17 April 1984

Today 17 April 2 members and 6 Sherpas reached C2 and going up to open route to South Col. Route to Col likely to open on 22 April and to concentrate in BC 23 April for summit bid 30 April.


Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism Ministry- 11 April 1984

C2 established at 6460m 9 April.

Today Sonam Palzor, Miss Aitwal, Rekha Sharma and 23 Sherpas left BC for C1. Down from C1 to BC Magan Bissa and Phu Dorjee (Bissa to KTM - leave BC 12 April).

Major Inder Kumar, Major Jai Bahugana, Lobsang Tshering and 5 Sherpas to C2 from C1 today. Weather good today.


Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism Ministry - 27 March 1984

5 Nepalese Sherpas while carrying loads BC to C1 hit by avalanche, 26 March at 08:08 am in Icefall.

Ang Rinji Sherpa, 49, of Rimijung village, dead; body to BC (when not said).

Kami Tshering and Lhakpa Dorje seriously injured; Sona Temba and Kami Nuru slightly injured. Helicopter requested for injured - trying for tomorrow.

At time of avalanche Dorje Lhatoo and Dr. Minoo Mehta were in icefall with 5 Nepalese but not hurt.