원정 개요

BC at Pangboche village
ABC at bottom of mountain but too far east
C1 at 1st biv
C2 at 2nd biv
C3 at 3rd biv
C4 at 4th biv on ice shelf sitting
C5 at 5th biv on East Ridge
High point at 5th biv on East Ridge.

Acclimatized on Kalapattar, Everest BC and Island Peak.

18 Oct started alpine style ascent, but ABC placed too far east as actually climbed eastern extension of Ama Dablam; from ABC could not see intended route of Russians in 1994 on East Face but actually climbed up to East Ridge from south. Lot of fresh snow on east, could fix no rope after having reached far eastern end of East Ridge. On 22 Oct then descended to ABC and climb finished. Warm direct sun only from 11:00 am and they stopped at 4:00 pm to make place for tent, which took 3 hours to prepare.

This team only 2 members (1994 team had 4 members and was in spring season). Had gotten very cold sitting on ice shelves and very tired after 5 days moving through 1 meter deep snow. Had only 1 snow bar; expected ice.