원정 개요

First went to base of North Pillar, intended route, but much loose rock coming down gully so too dangerous so did not attempt pillar but went to SE Face instead. Started up face at 11:30 pm of 24th and on top 4:00 am of 25th and 8:00 am back in BC. One hour after reaching BC snow avalanching began. Some vertical ice (3 pitons) just below summit. "I didn't pick the perfect route - it was dark." Perfect route perhaps to the right high up to SE Summit and then traverse left along summit ridge to highest summit. Steck descended same line as ascended.