원정 개요

Paul Moores - 23 Oct 79

Alan's illness never cleared up but all got onto plateau at about 21,000 feet which meant all technical difficulties over, but summit 5 miles away. Got onto West Ridge from valley where mountian school is decided against North Face when 3 massive avalanches came down when at ABC (dust of one hit camp), so went for repeat of Chris Bonington ridge route.

Snow every day, which meant tracks made to move loads high were filled in after night sleeping low.

Wind prevented summit attempt; got to 22,500 feet and then Alan couldn't go down above because no fixed rope.

Adrian and Moores tried to go to top on 18 Oct but so windy couldn't get beyond 23,500 that day and then quit.

No accidents or frostbite.

Burgesses still at Manang airstrip from which Moores flew today.


Alan Burgess with Moores - 30 Aug 79

Route from North; North Face to West Ridge of face itself too dangerous.
3 members only and no Sherpas above BC. Strictly alpine-style with no oxygen and no build-up.

Leave KTM 5 Sept by road to Dumre. 25 porters to BC via Marshyangdi to Pisang then south to BC at 16,000 feet at least. ABC at 18,000 feet if BC not above 16,000. Must acclimatize, will kill time getting fit looking at possible routes and walking around; then with break in weather, go for it and finish climb perhaps in 1 week.