원정 개요

C1 at top of Icefall
C2 at West Cwm
C3 at West Face.

Went to BC 17 April. 19 April in C1 and moved it to C2. 20 April to BC. 4 days in BC rest in good weather. 25 April BC to C2. 26 April up to C3 site to place gear there and returned to C2. 29 April BC and 30 April to Pangboche to rest and arrived with inexperienced climbers plugging him for advice and help. 6 May returned to BC. 9 May to C2 to reacclimatize and check tent and go up to check C3 tent but windy so did not reach C3 and returned to C2. 12 May to BC. Weather forecast for bad weather so again to Pangboche on 14 May.

Returned to BC on 18 May after weather forecast there would be "window" on 20 and 21 May. 19 May to C2 and found Garcia's sleeping bag with important medical kit stolen by Thamserku Trekking Sherpa and found bag in his tent but medical kit gone (very important for Garcia because amputated fingers very susceptible to new frostbite). 20th to C3, where Santos had very bad headache and stomach trouble so stayed in C3 while Garcia left C3 at 11:00 pm of 20 May and 4:30 am of 21st reached Korean C4 at 7800m; on up the couloir and left to Lhotse summit in strong wind in final snow above couloir; on top at about 1:30 pm, slipped twice in couloir because crampons skidded on rocks; back at C3 at 5:00 pm and slept there without sleeping bag because Santos had taken it to C2, thinking Garcia would be there 21st night. Garcia joined Santos in C2 on 22nd and slept there. 23rd in BC.

Garcia without rest from Pangboche up to top 21 May to KTM 26 May.