원정 개요

BC at normal site
C1 as same as Joos expedition site
C2 as same as Joos expedition site
C3 below the ramp.

16 May Hinkes and Pasang Gelu down from C2 to BC. 26 May up from BC to C1; 27th to C2; 28 May tried to get C3 but only to 7200m but bad snow conditions and had to refix ropes; got to 7200m at 4:30 pm too late to continue up so down to C2. 29th up again and reached 7400m at later afternoon C3 there for summit bid on 30th. 30th 00:30 am up from C3 and up the ramp to 7900m (about 100m below Col) and then towards summit, refixing old rope (Indian) which was vital in descent; if old rope not there, would not have been able to find way down in snow blizzard and in dark on mixed snow and rock. Hinkes got to top at 7:00-7:30 pm as light was fading. Returned to C3 about 3:00 am on 31st. Pasang Gelu turned back, close to top, reason unknown, but probably because he had no torch and worried about safe return to ramp over difficult rock and snow - steep section to easier descent via ramp. Hinkes met him in ramp, at least bumped into him in poor visibility in falling snow. Both returned to C3 together (lower than ramp, snow not falling). Left C3 late afternoon because too tired to move earlier; to C2 at 7:30 pm and BC 1st June at 7:30 pm also. In descent from top Hinkes down pants ripped badly from hurrying down rocks.

Oxygen used: both men from 7600m intermittently till oxygen stopped close to top to the for Hinkes and Pasang turned off at top of ramp because oxygen systems not working properly.

All altitudes and time are estimates above C2 since Hinkes had no watch or altimeter (Pasang Gelu had watch).

Hinkes video pictures in fading light show him about 5m below top.

Sherpa:
Pasang Gelu (Dhimbul)