원정 개요

C1 at top of Icefall
C2 at West Cwm
C3 at Lhotse Face
C4 at South Col.

4 May avalanche from West Shoulder wiped out C1. On summit push, some Sherpas were on "fixing team" putting in ropes and Phu Nuru was part of this team and left C4 at 9:00 pm on 29th; Hahn, Brockmeyer, Dawa Nuru and Mingma Tenzing left at 10:00 pm and on top at 9:35 am slowed by waiting for fixing team to do its work in deep snow and then back to C4 at 2:15 pm and to C2 31st; also going for top on 29-30 May were Waldron and Da Nuru (Phortse, 1959) left C4 10:15 pm, turned back at 28,350 ft (well above the balcony) because Waldron felt that was his limit and be able to descend on his feet.

Used oxygen in C3 (Waldron) and from C3 (Hahn and Brockmeyer) to high point to nearly to yellow band enroute to C3 (Brockmeyer and Waldron) to and in C4 only by Hahn and Sherpas in C4 to top and in C4 (this was first summit party overseen by Hahn).

The second summit party of Diffendal, Hamill, Laserer, Morris, Rionda, Schachinger, Strife, Tucker, Da Nuru Sherpa, Da Sonam Sherpa [and Pasang Rinji] followed one day behind. Second summit party left C4 at 10:00 pm of 30th May; Laserer turned back at 8150m because of bad weather he said; Rionda back at about same altitude; Strife and Schachinger reached about 8500m, perhaps slightly less (Schachinger said because of the weather); Hamill, Morris, Tucker and Da Nuru turned back at about 8600m because of cold winds; Diffendal, Pemberton, Da Sonam [and Pasang Rinji] reached top at 8:45 am of 31st and return to sleep in C4 at about 11:00 pm; all others in this party went down to C2.

Oxygen used by the second party: members in C3 to high points to C4 and most of them below C4 - Sherpa in C4 to high points to C4.

[Third summit party of Peter Ford, Mingma Ongel and Ang Pasang wanted to try for summit on June 1, but were prevented from starting out by high winds.]

Climb now finished.

Sherpa summiters.
Dawa Nuru/Danuru, 26/10/78, Phortse, Everest X5, Manaslu X1
Mingma Tshering, 1/6/86, Phortse, Cho Oyu X1
Phu Nuru, 16/5/80, Phortse, Cho Oyu X3, Everest X1
Da Sonam, 1965, Pangboche, Everest X4
Pasang Rinji, Phortse [added from IMG web site]

Other Sherpas:
Da Nuru, Phortse, 19/5/59