원정 개요

Summary of climbing details of Marcin Miotk (according to his emails of 9 and 14 July 2005)

Miotk made two bids to reach the summit. On the first one, he went alone to C1 on the 29th of May. Next day two independent Austrians, Hans Goger and Gerfield Goeschl, came up from ABC and the three men went together to C2 and slept there. On the 1st of June, Miotk decided the wind was too strong and descended to ABC while Goeschl went to the summit the same day and Goger the day after that, 2nd June.

Miotk made his second summit push all by himself. On 3 June he went from ABC to C2, on the 4th to C3, and on the 5th to the top at 2:30 pm. He was the last person to summit Everest (or any other Nepalese mountain) this season.

He slept in C3 on the 5th, descended all the way to ABC on the 6th, and went from there to Tingri on the 7th.

He had only one tent with him (and no Sherpas). He pitched his tent at ABC, then took it with him as he went to C1 and C2 and down again. In C3, he occupied the badly battered tent of an India air force member, S. S. Chaitanya, who had summited on the 30th of May and then had fallen to his death.

Miotk was the first Polish climber to summit Everest without the use of the any bottled oxygen.


Note by E. Hawley - 15 July, 2005

In his reports to two Internet websites, EverestNews.com and MountEverest.net, Miotk discussed whether his climb was solo and observed that there are different definitions of the term. It clearly was not a truly solo climb since there were other climbers still on the mountain. And it does not count as a totally unsupported climb like that of Alison Hargreaves in 1995 since he did some of his climbing in the close company of two others and used the tent of a different team at C3.


Email from Goger, and Goeschl to Billi via telephone and email - 15-20 July 2005

On 30th May Marcin climbed with them to C2 (7550m) and on 31st May they all went up to 7850m, where they stayed the night as strong winds prevented them from going farther to C3, however, Goeschl said Marcin was very slow that day. The next day (June 1) Goeschl went up to the summit and Goger went up to C3. Goger said Marcin went down to ABC on that day as he felt the weather was too bad to go any further. Both Goger and Goeschl saw Marcin again at ABC at around 10 am on June 3rd and he told them that he wanted to do another summit push without oxygen.

However, Goeschl said he was suprised that Marcin had been planning to ascend to C2 at the same day as he was previously very slow.