원정 개요

C1 at top of Icefal
C2 at West Cwm
C3 at Lhotse Face
High point at Lhotse Face.

We pulled out - it was the reminiscent of K9 with intermittent weather, Icefall started to meet, CSPCC said Icefall route to be closed on the 3rd (of June), also there was a line (of climbers) from bottom of Lhotse Face practically to South Col (arrived 26 May) everyone waiting in C2 to go up, so any significant drop in weather would mean a bad distraction. Slow to occupy C1 because we had a group of trekkers to BC, they were sick so members got sick (bronchitis). 16 May 9 members up to 7500m for acclimatization and down to C2 and BC 17 May. Back up from BC to C1 on 25th and C2 on 26th. Stayed waiting for better weather, so crowded and other factors (see above) so decided to pull out on 29th, down to BC 30th and left by helicopter to KTM on 31st (except Roberts, who follows with baggage).

Five Sherpas, Ang Dorje (sirdar), Chuldim, Pasang, Nuru Gyalzen and Phu Tashi reached South Col and stocked camp there on five days starting on 4 May, but camp not occupied.

Sandling twisted her knee on 10 May in Icefall but did not leave expedition, since her husband, Follows was still climbing; she stayed at BC.

Those who did leave early:

Buck had planned to make a south-north traverse of Everest and had permission to do so, but decided to go to Tibet to see north side, left in helicopter 23 May to KTM, went by road to Kodari and North side ABC. (Bucks summited on 5 June with Brice's expedition.)

Gosens, after 2 hours in Icefall, left expedition 26 April, frightened by Icefall and distracted by telephone conversations with home about wife's illness.

McDonald left after high point; left about 17 May.