원정 개요

Fixed 2 km ropes above C3 to C4 site. Until 12 Dec fantastically good weather but after 12 Dec wind started. From Xmas much snowfall as well as wind. Wants to return to W Ridge route next winter with small team, acclimatize in Oct-Nov in Khumbu and begin Everest climb as early as allowed.

Planned to use oxygen from C5 at about 8000m.
Sungdare started climbing 19 Jan with this expedition

Pilon and Rebreyend had to go home on 3 Jan for jobs. Grassi home sick and left with Pilon and Rebreyend. Machado got frostbitten feet and Vagne went home with him. Callande not a climber, but went to C3 and stayed till end. Francou left BC 5 Jan for his work. Ratel left BC 22 Jan. Paul very sick (altitude) and left BC 24 Nov.

Dossin is making plans to return to Everest's West Ridge next winter.

Abiding by their life-saving instinct, took the decision to turn back. Having to abandon all hope of successfully climbing the last stage, a steep rocky ascent, they had no choice but to dismantle their C4 which had been pitched at 7500m (24,600 ft). Weather conditions were extremely unfavorable (constant strong wind and snow blizzards). Under these conditions any fresh attempt would have turned in "suicide."

Between KTM 5 or 6 days from 29 Jan.


Korean Everest expedition - 19 Jan 85

Only 3 French climbers left: Dossin, Chamoux and 23-year-old [Fine?] plus 6 Sherpas left. Italians said W Ridge dangerous, so Nam stayed 8 days at BC and asked permit to climb with French and climbed to 7000m on French route. Then got letter from Oh saying come down (Ministry refused permit because Koreans abandoned attempt). In one month French did not make C4 from C3. They did not bring high altitude food from France, but bought all food in Namche. Also only 3 climbing members left (plus young doctor and leader's wife and cameraman's wife who not climbing). Cameraman went back to French with frostbite and older doctor with him.


Banskota, Tourism - 4 Jan 85

LO report of 3 Jan:
29 Dec Eric Dossin and Vincent Fine making route for C4 about 200m above C3 (7200m = C3). Other members returned to C1 and stayed there after ferrying loads to C2 and C3 from C1. Weather bad since 30 Dec and started snowing.