원정 개요

C1 at top of Icefall
C2 at West Cwm
C3 at Lhotse Face
C4 at South Col.

Got to C1 long after BC arrival because Icefall route not opened and puja's had to be held. After C2 established, long period of bad weather and team spent total of 13 days, tried twice to go to C3 but back down because of strong winds.

From C4 for top on 29 May 10:30 am, all who summited plus Miss Salmasi who turned back near the Balcony developed eye problem and back to C4. On top in two groups: one at 10:25 am and other at 11:25 am: first group to put women on top, the other group moved slowly to see whether weather could change for the worse and they might not summit but at least women got to top. All down to C4 to sleep. 31st to C2 and 1st June BC. 2nd summit group also delayed by many other teams on route at Hillary Step.

Bahrami was in summit team going up from C2 but returned to C2: was Ok till 31 May 6:00 am, when seemed to go into shock because of other women's success but she not with them and became unconscious; expedition doctor said probably cerebral infection: Sherpa carried her to BC on 1 and 2 June and helicopter to KTM and Norvic Hospital. She started to talk a little on 7th June.

Oxygen: Women members from C3 to and in C4 except Keshaverz, who used it climbing to C3. Male members from C4 to top to C4.

Sherpas: from C4 to top to C4 except Chhang Dawa, who used it from about 8500m to top to C4.

Sherpas Summiters:
Chhang Dawa, 30/7/82, Upper Walung, Everest X1, Makalu X1, Lhotse X1
Lhakpa Gelu,23/6/67, Bubsa, Everest X11, Cho Oyu X1
Lhakpa, 1960/61, Khumjung, Makalu X1, Lhotse X1
Karma Gyalzen, Makalu-9, 4/9/83, 1st 8000er
Dawa, 19/6/60, Mera village, Kanku-9, near Pangkongma, Solu, 1st 8000er

9 June: Miss Sadegh: She was slightly ahead of Mrs Keshavarz, waited near summit while Keshavarz joined her and they went to top together with Sadegh's arm on Keshavarz's shoulder. They were 2nd and 3rd team members to top, Gheychisaz was just a little ahead of them.

Why does Sadegh climb? "I love nature, I love to walk, I love to get to the top of things; I like to do my best." She does some mountain guiding in Iran but not as a job.


From Punjabi web site:

The Iranian expedition sent 12 members to the summit, including four Sherpas from Nepal acting as their high-altitude guides and porters.

The first successful Iranian summiteers, according to the press statement issued by the ministry, are: the 51-year-old team leader, Alpinist Eghbal Aflaky Aghbelagh, Mahmed Shoaei, a 43-year-old engineer, Azim Ghechisaz, 24, Reza Bahadorani, a 27-year-old jewellery seller and the two women.

Later, a second group in the team headed by Miroslav Caban succeeded in sending two more members up -- Reza Zarei Toudeshici and Jalal Cheshmeh Ghasabani.