원정 개요

BC at usual site
C1 at top of Icefall
C2 in Western Cwm
C3 on Lhotse Face
C4 at South Col.

4-14th Oct bad weather. 14-28th Indians not making successful ascent and Japanese had to wait. Fimally at end of Oct Indians agreed Japanese could now go up. On 30th, Ang Rita and Ang Phurba set out for top with Japanese on 30th, but both turned back. Ang Rita was attempting 4th ascent without oxygen. Akutsu and Kimoto bivouacked at 8600m on descent.

16 Sept-1 Oct film-shooting and Indians not climbing "so we couldn't go up." 4-14 Oct bad weather. 14-28 Indians not making successful ascent and Japanese had to wait, finally at end of Oct Indians agreed Japanese could now go up (Yagihara had already decided would send up summit party on 30 Oct). On 30th Ang Rita and Ang Phurba set out for top with 8 Japanese on 30th including Saito but 2 Sherpas and Saito turned back after 100-200m only (Ang Rita throat trouble, other 2 oxygen masks broken). Yagihara at top 9:50 and Yamada 10:00 am; returned to C4 about 2:30 pm. Nazuka and Saegusa to C4 also and 3 on down to C3 leaving in C4 Murakami, Saegusa and Sato. Akutsu couldn't came down (snowblinded and tired), so Kimoto and he bived at 8600m beyond South Summit without biv equipment.

Murakami alone carried up [the next day with oxygen for rescue]. Oxygen and reached bived men at 3:00 am (if he did not go Akutso, aged 47, would have died) although had oxygen all night). Kimoto had bad frostbitten toes and heel, Sato bad frostbite 7-8 fingers. No more summit bids because very cold and strong wind after that (30 Oct including, no wind).

Miyazaki had altitude problems and to C2 only.

Did not see Mrs Schmatz's body nor Chinese tripod.