원정 개요

Thompson left C1 at 7 am on 29 May, rested at C2 for a while and ascended to 8300m where he met Dawa at 12:30 am. They left at 1:30 am. After summiting they went to ABC (6 pm).

Boslooper left C3 at 2 am, summited, and returned to ABC the same day (6 pm). Next day they left for KTM and arrived 6 June.

Oxygen: Members from C2 to high points to C2. Sherpas in C3 to top to and in C3.

McGuinness got to 8500m and turned back due to cold.
Memon's highest point was 7500m on 28 May; he was too weak.

Sukhi stayed at C2 from 28 May to 2 June. She refused to come down as she was under pressure from her family to climb Mt Everest. However, she was too weak to go up. She stayed up there mostly on her own and got very weak. On 1 June Boslooper and Namgyal stayed there and she made several calls to family from Boslooper's satellite phone. She decided to come down on 2nd June but she was so weak that she had to be short-roped and helped down by two Sherpa's (Dawa and Temba). She arrived in BC on 3 June.

Duncan Chessell put a dispatch on Explorers.Net to appeal to her family to persuade her to come down. She arrived in KTM on 6 June and left on 7 June.

Sherpas:
Dawa Gyalzen Sherpa, 15/2/67, Saframa, Lokhim-9, Lhotse X1, Cho Oyu X1
Namgyal, 1977, Rakha-5, Khotang, Cho Oyu X3
Dawangchu/Da Wongchhu, 4/4//79, Kurima, Lokhim, 1st 8000er
Temba Sherpa (no summit), 4/9/77, Sotang-6, Solukhumbu


June 1, 2005, 16:06 EST, McGuinness Everest North

"This is a dispatch that shouldn't have been posted," writes a desperate Duncan Chessell. But he has no choice, one of the climbers, an Indian girl, refuses to come down from the mountain - allegedly pressured into the decision by her family.

"Sukhi has not given us any phone numbers or contact details so this is the ugly public forum." writes Duncan, and pleads to the family: "Sukhi rang you yesterday from 7700m ot ask if it was Ok to come down like we have been telling her. You told her to push up - this is wrong, the situation is critical life and death. You need to allow her to come down - she listens to no one else - we have all tried."

"Sukhi's sister just rang back our trekking agent to ask how much more to pay to give Sukhi more chance to go up as it is very important for families prestige. Either that or it is an elaborate plot to rid himself of herself of a family member.... Now directly I tell you... your sister Suhki is about to die is she does not come down."

Read Duncan's plea for the climber's life, on his website (links section)

"In 35+ expeditions I have never seen anything like this, it is cultural fatalism that I don't understand, I do know that time is running out and I hope the Sherpas can get her down one way or the other," writes Duncan ABC.