원정 개요

BC at CBC/IC on 15th at 5800m
C1 at North Col.

June 1 Negrete left C3 at 11:30 pm (NST), reached summit at 12:15 pm of June 2, stayed on summit about 30 minutes, descended to C2 where Negrete reached at 1:30 am of 3rd. Raineri left C3 at midnight of June 1, reached 8800m at 1:35 pm of June 2, descended to C2. When both reached to C2 there was nothing: no tent, no supply, no sleeping bags as everything have been removed by their Nepali helpers (Man Bahadur Tamang and Lila Tamang). The reason was they had to get yak next morning for sending all their stuff to CBC. Both Negrete and Raineri had to bivouac at C2. Next day both descended to ABC. Raineri did not give particular reason for not going to summit. He said it was just mental problem that he decided to turn around from 8800m. Conservani turned around from just above C2 on May 30 due to bad weather. Setani was there as support person and went up to C1 on 20th. While descending Negrete met Gheorghe and Lakpa at 2nd Step. At the top met 2 Brazilians coming from south side. Summit was clear and warm but windy. At Summit there was about 15 to 20 people.

The expedition returned to KTM on June 4 and trying to leave on 9th.

The two Tamangs reached up to 8100m.

Oxygen:
Conservani from 7300m to 7600m to C2
Negrete from C2 to summit to C2 including sleeping in C3
Raineri from C3 to 8800m to C2 including sleeping in C3