원정 개요

BC at normal site
C1 at top of Icefall
C2 in Western Cwm
C3 at start of S Pillar
C4 on S Pillar.

Joined normal route at 8300m; route very steep C2 to C4 especially C3 to C4 at 65 degrees. Made Icefall route with Americans and joined equipment so paid them nothing (as others did). Mrs Schmatz [body] not seen (much snow on mountain).

Koreans on 26 Sept made track to Hillary Step and there French took over the lead. Summit reached in following order:
Frenchman
Pema Dorje
3 Frenchman and 1 Swiss
Um
3 Sherpas with French
Batard


1988 Korean Everest-Lhotse Expedition by San-Ak In

KAF's Everest-Lhotse Expedition has been organized with the memory of the 1988 Seoul Olympic Games for its main object.

BC was firstly established by the advance party on Aug 9th. On the way to C2, they advanced through the Icefall in partnership with the American Expedition. Weather had been bad after C2 was built up on Sept 7th, so that from Sept 9th, all the members had recess at BC and C1.

C3 of 1 box tent was arranged on snow face after cutting the 60-degree slope of surface, which was about 500m upward over the rock. It was South Ridge end.

By Sept 18th, the ropes were fixed to the height of 7800m. Next day they established C4.

Then a selection was made for the first attack. Climbing leader Mr. Seon-Woo Nam and member Chang-Seon Kim, Hong-Gil Uhm started BC on Sept 24th with Pema Dorji and 2 other Sherpas. From C2 to C4, they should cover 1660m of altitudinal differrence in a day. Leader Nam climbed down in bad condition, while the pair Kim and Uhm started for C4 with 2 Sherpas on Sept 26th.

Ahead on 7 French members they proceeded their route to S Summit through deep snow. Arrived at S Summit at 12:15 pm. Alternating in the lead, the French and the Korean climbers went on. Finally at 2:30 pm, member Kim and Pema Dorje firstly stood on the summit. Member Uhm reached at once, even the other Sherpa went back around the South Summit.

The second attempt was followed from BC on Sept. 27. Starting C4 at 3:40 am, Mr. Bong-Wan Jang (subleader), Byeong-Ho Jang and Seung-Kyon Jeong again conquered the summit at 8:50 am. It was Sept 29th. On the top, they recorded those wonderful panoramic views on a videotape with them, where they came across an American climber Alison.

The third attempt was timely planned for the closing of the 1988 Seoul Olympic Games - to win both Everest and Lhotse at the same time. Based on the expectation of the summit on Oct 2nd, the both parties departed from BC on Sept 30th.

The Lhotse party (member Ho-Jin Jeong, Hyeong-Chil Lim, Kwae-Don Park and Hee-Dong Park) stayed at C4 on Oct 1 in two tents. One was already built and used by Czechoslovak climbers who previously conquered the summit on Sept 28th and the other was newly established by themselves.

Mr. Seon-Woo Nam, the climbing leader, spent that night alone at Everest C4 with his great ambition to climb up solo. At 3:00 am in the next dawn, he started. Following the ropes fixed by the first party, he climbed the Hillary Step and overcame the Peak Cornice. Then he finally gained the summit.

On the other hand, the Lhotse party started at 4:00 am on the same day. They passed over the unstable and steep couloir (500 meters long) without using the ropes for belaying. After more than 5 hours of climbing, they could just over come the last obstacle - the snow face of 30 meters long with 65-degree slope. The summit was all pointed. It was 9th achievement by Korean climbers above 8000 meters height.