원정 개요

BC at normal site
C1 at top of Icefall
C2 in Western Cwm
C3 on Lhotse Face
C4 at South Col.

From 12th to 27th Sept were stocking higher camps without occupying them and sent people down to rest; had problems getting Sherpas to work.

Allison, Ruoss, Frush and 3 Sherpas in 1st summit team and occupied C3 and C4 first. Planned these 3 Sherpas would carry extra oxygen as they all set out from Col just after midnight of 28th with Frush and Pasang Gyalzen breaking trail (Frush found snow up to his waist) and took 6 hours to 8500m where intended to change bottles; 2 of 3 Sherpas, Frush now discovered, had turned back very soon after leaving C4 (one complained of tight gaiters and other went with him). Now oxygen supply only good for 4 people for 2 hours and knew would take at least 4 hours so Frush and Ruoss gave extra supply carried by Pasang Gyalzen to Allison. Although Frush and Ruoss felt fine, they felt it better not to try oxygenless ascent and thought would have another chance.

2nd summit bid was by Tabin, Luce and 3 more Sherpas.

Never got a team past C3 after this: storm came along on 4th Oct with strong winds. Frush got mild frostbite so could go up only in gentle weather. Frush left BC 14 Oct and when he left 5 climbers were in C2 hoping for summit push.


Added data

Hambly, Goodman and Dailey on South Col 16 Oct but weather terrible and they went down next day with some frostbite. Petroske and Ruoss twice to C3 and then summit bids had been aborted (1) when French threw 2 Sherpa bodies down face and (2) need to help frostbitten Spaniards descend. Climbing ended on 17th, all off mountain 19th and BC evacuated 24th.

Geff Tabin 28 Oct: his party reached summit 40 minutes before Nam of Korean expedition on 2 Oct.