원정 개요

BC at CBC/IC on April 11 at 5821m
C1 at North Col (little higher)
High point at below the 2nd Step.

May 15 Leino, Molsa, Myllys and Soulanen started from ABC to C1. May 16 all four members to C1. May 18 three members slept in C2. May 19 Suolanen turned around to ABC and Leino and Myllys went to C3. They found it was very difficult to find a place to put their tent at C3. May 20 Leino and Myllys left C3 at 2 am (NST), reached 1st Step at 7 am. They did not find fixed line there. Leino contacted Molsa at ABC and told about non-existence of fixed line. Molsa went to Russell Brice and told him about the fixed line. Brice told Molsa that no fixed ropes were done because of frostbite of three fingers on one of the Sherpas who went up to put the fixed line returned due to bad weather and frostbite. This information was not give to the Finnish expedition and they were under the impression that the high altitude line were fixed as agreed upon by Russell Brice at the all expedition meeting held earlier. Brice politely regretted the situation that the two Finnish climbers had to face at that altitude. Then they passed the 1st Step. By the time the two climbers reached the 2nd Step (8630m), it was their turn around time 12:30 pm. Both climbers descended to C2.

Oxygen:
Leino C2 to 2nd Step to C2 for climbing and sleeping.
Molsa: C1 to C2 for climbing and sleeping.
Myllys: C1 to 2nd Step to C2 for climbing and sleeping.
Suolanen: C1 to C2 for climbing and sleeping.

High points:
Jarvinen up to C2 on April 26.
Karinen up to C1 on April 21.
Lehtinen up to C2 on April 21.

Molsa said the expedition had enough ropes and other kits to make the necessary fixed line in high altitude. But all were left at CBC as they were told that those ropes and kits were not necessary because Brice agreed to put up the fixed line. Later Brice paid back the money to Finnish expedition.

The expedition returned to KTM on May 26 and will leave on May 24.

The weather condition on summit push day was good (May 20).