원정 개요

Kato climbed without oxygen to top so he made his C2 at 7900m and no C3, while Ukada's C3 was at 7800m because started using oxygen from C1 to top and to C2. Okuda left C3 for top at 1:00 am NST and on top 7:10 am with Phurba Chhiri (Phurba Chhiri used oxygen in C3 to top to 8400m, then gave his oxygen to Kato). Okuda to ABC same day, Phurba Chhiri to C1 that day.

Kato left for top from his C2 at 7900m without Sherpa; left C2 at 6:30 pm 26 May and on top at 8:20 am NST; at 8400m lost most of his sight in both eyes at 2:00 pm because of oxygen deprivation; Phurba Chhiri gave his oxygen to Kato and accompanied him and talked him down the fixed rope to C2, sight not improving. Kato got frostbitten nose during night of 26-27 May which was very cold and windy. Slept in C2 and ABC 28 May.

Sherpa:
Phurba Chhiri, Saframa, Manaslu, Ever X2, etc