원정 개요

ABC on Rongbuk Glacier
C1 at bottom of North Face below Japanese Couloir
C2 in crevasse on North Face.

22 April started up to fix ropes but strong winds, snowfall and avalanching; moved up and down between ABC and C1 eight times from 22 April to 29 May. Fixed 1000m of rope some (600m on pure water ice in lower part of Japanese Couloir). All members reached C2. Without oxygen, need at least 3 days of good weather. Impossible to walk on face more than one at a time, not 2 or more in succession.