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Dhaulagiri International Expedition

Dhaulagiri I · 2005 · 봄 (1) · Italy

원정 개요

C1 above NE Col on snowfield
High point at fore-summit.

The whole team attempted to summit on 5 May. Benet, Merai and Vuerich climbed to the false summit (aluminium pole) but realized they'd gone wrong and returned to BC. Alloi, Cedolin, Guiliani and Gricar reached C2. Next attempt on 10 May also failed. Whole team was forced back by storm just below C2.

On 3 May Benet, Meroi and Vuerich to C1. 4 May took C1 tent up to 7250m and slept there in C2 on NE Ridge. 5 May up for summit bid but reached false summit at 7:30-8:00 am on 5 May (had left C2 1:30 am). Thought this was summit till saw there was a higher point and on their descent met Inaki Ochoa who informed they had been to wrong summit. Down to BC on 5th leaving C2 tent in place in hope to go up again and reach highest summit.

Made 2 more bids for top: 9 May up to 6300m only, but weather "was terrible with lightning and snowfall" and back to BC. 17 May up from BC to C1; 18 May C2; 19 May up from C2 to 7700m at base of big snowfield, but too dangerous from avalanches and falling seracs even just above BC. Down to BC 19 May and climb finished. All 3 members climbed together in all three bids.

Alloi, Cedolin, Guiliani and Gricar left BC on 12 May, came back to KTM on 17 May and left for Italy on 22 May.

Enrico de Luca left team in first week after arriving at BC. Left about 15 April, not feeling well, did not go above BC.

  • 내부 원정 ID4883
  • 원본 EXPIDDHA105106
  • 대장Roberto Alloi
  • 루트 (Route)NE Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도8120m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유산악 상태 (5)

참가자 8명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Roberto AlloiItalyLeader---
Romano BenetItalyClimber---
Mario CedolinItalyClimber---
Enrico (Erri) De LucaItalyClimber---
Cesare GiulianiItalyClimber---
Klemen GricarSloveniaClimber---
Nives MeroiItalyClimber---
Luca VuerichItalyClimber---

출처·참고문헌

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