원정 개요

High point at 7650m on traverse by Guggemos (Lhakpa Nuru continued on to 8050m).

Left C1 on 2 May 9:00 pm by Guggemos and Lhakpa Nuru, Stangl and Ochoa. Reached 7450m at 2:20 am on 3rd May; then stopped because bad snow conditions and late so down to BC 3 May. 4th May up again at 6:00 pm (climbed at night because snow had and not so hot temperature). From BC to C1 at 9:30 pm; 5th to C2. 5th May from C2 at 6:30 pm, up to 7650m but now Guggemos bad chest infection due to cold air in throat at 12:30-1:00 am 6th May; were on the traverse of NE Face. Returned down to C3 to wait for Lhakpa Nuru to try for summit and he returned 5:00 am after having followed tracks of Koreans, Ochoa and Stangl and some Italians expedition members, all of whom went for summit, where there is an aluminium pole; all knew was not true summit except Koreans and Lhakpa Nuru who was there at 3:30 pm of 6th at 8050m. Lhakpa to C3, joined Guggemos and both to BC same day. Climb finished because of Guggemos's illness.