원정 개요

BC at normal site
C1 at Lho La (small snowcave for kitchen only)
C2 at West Shoulder
C3 at 30m below West Ridge (away from wind)
C4 on West Ridge at foot of pinnacle
High point at Hornbein Couloir.

Between making C3 and C4: fatal avalanche, strong winds and deep snow and tried to find route to C5 in Hornbein. Fixed ropes to 7800m (at 7700m found Parmentier 50m beside his tent, perhaps couldn't find tent in bad weather and froze) and then down. Heavy snow and retreated to Lho La, talked with French to go on their S Col route.

With continued bad winds sent 4 Spaniards and Sherpas to W Cwm and on up. Reached S Col on 12th Oct, rested there 1 day and began up to top at 2 am 14th, found dead Sherpas of French team and on to S Summit where Martinez stopped with snowblindness, others reached summit 12:50 pm, stayed 20 mins (had parapente but wind too strong to fly), found Martinez waiting and returned to Col at 8:30 pm.

BC evacuated 19th Oct. Belvis, Giner and Martinez to KTM from BC by helicopter 18th Oct.

Small avalanche hit C3 21 Sept 7:00 am. In camp were Tomas, "Kali" Mingma Sherpa and Narayan Shrestha in same tent; Tomas cut tent, pulled Mingma out; they pulled out Narayan, who was dead of probable head injury. Both frostbitten fingers and left BC 26th BC for Shrestha
cremation.