원정 개요

C1 at low end of Western Cwm
C2 on Lhotse Face.

Sungdare did no climbing on Everest; came to BC on about 17-18 Sept, drunk, asking for money but bringing his gear; he didn't want to climb in 1 day, didn't agree to go ahead of Batard by a day.

7th Sept - KTM/Thyangboche by helicopter
8th Sept - arrived BC for meeting with other French climbers
9th Sept - Pheriche to see radio man
10th Sept - Lobuche overnight 10/11
11th " - tried to go to top and reached South Col; left BC 8:15 pm
12th " - arrived S col 11:00 am; slept in biv at 7100m 1 hour and
and all returned to BC at 4:00 pm; turned back at Col
because snow too deep; had 1 Gurung Sherpa from biv to Col
and they too tired also; all 3 took turns leading
13th " - in BC
14th " - started up at 5:15 pm alone; 6 Sherpas were above him: 1
tent at about 6200m
(in Icefall alone with headlamp, spoke with Chamoux on North
side) C2 at 7300m; 2 Sherpas.
15th " - Batard slept in C2 1 hour - (2:00-3:00 am).
Batard up again and met other 3 Sherpas who were making
trail; he caught up with them at 7900m they stopped at
7900m but Batard on up alone with 1 Sherpa following him;
Batard made track above 7900m himself (no others above
him); at S Col at 8:00 am.
At 8200m Kami Rinjee stopped at 10:00 am; Batard on up
alone without rucksack, in which left down jacket in hot
windless day; "it was my mistake" to leave jacket with
Kami Rinjee.

At 8600m, near South Summit, cloudy and little (15-20
minutes) of snowfall, about 3:00 pm; Batard "getting cold,
very tired and it was very difficult; snow was very deep"
at 4:00 pm reached 150m distant from summit (30 vertical
m); could have climbed Hillary Step, but so very tired, not
sure of returning down mtn; had done this alone and those
below saw how high he reached and in 3rd bid others ahead of
him to top amazed at what he had been able to do (getting so high)
15 Sept - returned directly to BC from 8820m; arrived at BC
midnight; Kami Rinjee had waited at South Col without tent:
Batard arrived Col at 6:00 pm and both down (via left of
Geneva Supur direct to Cwm) together; at Cwm, two Batard Sherpas
brought hot tea up from US C2; two Batard Sherpas with him now
16 Sept - BC arrived 0:15 am; stayed at BC
10 days now in BC because very tired at first and then bad
weather from about 17th with daily small snowfall
25 Sept - up from BC at 5:00 pm alone in full moon; Sherpas had
been above BC; 23rd Gurung and ? Sherpas had deposited tent
at Col, but all except Gurung down to BC on 25th, but same
day Koreans and French arrived at Col
25 Sept - slept in C2 where Iman Gurung was in tent; Batard arrived midnight
and slept 3 hours; Batard alone left C2 at 7300m at 4:00 am
26 Sept - Batard arrived South Col 8:00 am, stayed at Col 1/2 hour;
no one now at Col: Korean leader came through Col,
retreating for oxygen-less summit attempt while other
Koreans (on oxgygen) and French (all except Metzger on
oxygen were at 8500m when Batard saw them; Batard vomitted
here: from Col to top to BC couldn't eat or drink; had not
recovered strength from 2nd attempt; without this problem
would have made it to top in less than 20 hours.
- left Col 8:30 am and climbed alone in "good track" of
Koreans and French and on top at 3:30 pm; also on top were
French. Batard stayed 20-30 minutes and down.
- stopped at Col because of sickness; still could not drink
without vomiting; arrived at Col 6:30 pm
27 Sept - left Col 6:00 am and stopped in US C2, etc; left BC 12
noon and left BC 2:00 pm to Lobuche
28 Sept - arrived KTM


Benoit Chamoux - 7 Aug 1988

Batard is very strong; is capable of doing "express ascents" between South Col route is very long and much depends on how much trail breaking he must do as well as weather and health.
1st to do "express ascent" (Chamonix term) was Krzyztof Wielicki in 23 hours to summit (but not down) in 1981
Chamoux only other:
23 hours up Nanga Parbat
23 hours up K2
23 hours up and down Broad Peak (16 hours up)
routes mostly already established by him and others


EP Hillary - 28 July 1988

"A partly fair effort" if Batard and/or Sungdare 24 hours BC-top-BC.

"If in the report, it was made quite clear route established halfway up Lhotse Face, I'd be quite impressed; but if report does not mention all difficult routes established then not so impressed."


EP Hillary - 18 March 1988

"Pretty unusual, wish them luck - more legitimate activity - would be remarkable effort - only reservation I would have: I'd be much more impressed if trip up mountain not on fixed ropes put in for him."

Comment on Marc Batard and Sungdare's 24-hour ascent of Everest Aut 1988.


Ministry of Tourism - 15 Sept 88, 5:45 pm

Batard 100m below summit 4:15 pm today and exhausted due to bad weather; lost some clothing and turned back; was alone; where now not known at 5:45 pm.

10 am today at 8300m. 5:15 pm yesterday left BC.