원정 개요

C4 at C3 tent site.

Between 31 March and 23 April bad weather much snowfall and avalanching but C2 pitched under protective serac. Again bad weather between 25 Apr and 7 May. 2 May up from BC, Mario, Mario and Gobbi to C2. 9 May Silvio and Daniele from BC to C3 while 2 Marios and Gobbi up to C3 with them. Stayed in C3 because strong wind on 10 and 11 May. 12 May 3:00 am started for top by 2 Marios, Daniele and Silvio with Viesturs and Gustafsson. 4:30 am Mondinelli down at 7200m because feet cold; others to top in a little wind and clear and red sunrise. Bernasconi with Viesturs and Gustafsson in C3 at 10:00 pm; 2 Marios in fog and snowfall could not see route so bived at 7700m (very cold) at 8:30 pm; to 5:30 am of 13th and BC on 13th by all members. 2 Marios and Daniele left BC by helicopter 16 May (helicopter to bring snow samples from C1, C2 and 5900m for scientific analysis).

Mondinelli and Gobbi up from C2 on 16th with Abele Blanc and 3 others, Lock, Mace and Cusik for summit bid on 18 May to 20 May: 18th summit bid stopped that day where fatal avalanche struck Blanc's summit party; Gobbi reached 6300m and Mondinelli on 6250m. Climb finished.