원정 개요

Started climb on 3 May above seracs on NW Face to biv in snowhole at 5650m. 4 May up to 5900m. Snowfalling from 3rd afternoon, in morning not in afternoon. Again snowfalling and now avalanching on him but did no harm. "If you climb there is no way" to continue in such condition, so down BC on 4th. 5th heavy snowfall which would have prevented descent that day. Too tired now to make another attempt.