원정 개요

BC at normal site
C1 at top of Icefall
C2 in Western Cwm
C3 on Lhotse Face
C4 at South Col.

Reached S Col: both Burgesses, Hillary, Lagne, Lapkass, MacKenzie, Porzak, Reutersward, Jeff and Kellie Rhoads, Tettelin and Van Snick = 12 of 15 members and all of them to col once without oxygen except Porzak, plus six or eight Sherpas. Those who did not go above it were defeated by winds until 25th May, when it was snowstorm that sent down a party that arrived that day and went down. Now difficult getting off the mountain and no more summit bids. By 29th May there were 2 meters fresh snow at C2; very dangerous.

[Aat 11:00 pm 16th the three foreigners [Ball, Hillary and MacKenzie] set out for summit (only Ball without oxygen); reached 8200m. Now Ball too cold, Hillary had throat infection and both turned back (MacKenzie alone 200m more in altitude).]

Successful summiters left col at midnight of 23rd each carrying 2 bottles of oxygen and dumped one each at S Summit (Adrian Burgess wanted to do without oxygen but used it for expedition's success; in fact carrying 2 bottles defeated usefulness of using one - did actually move more slowly than he has done without any in earlier years). Adrian and 2 Sherpas at top at 7:00 am, MacKenzie alone at 7:30 am (went back to col to repair crampon). 4 back at col by 10:00 am and Adrian to C2 2:00 pm (did not go through icefall same day because it especially dangerous in afternoon)

Whittaker could have gotten to C4 at least, possibly summit.