원정 개요

BC at Sumnag Glacier/Lusuma Glacier
ABC at foot of SE Face
C1 at top of face at start of S Ridge.

Acclimatized on SE Face three times before making summit push on 22nd Oct by Blagus, Krmelj and Samec at 1:00 am; to the S Ridge at 3 pm and pitched tent there. 23rd started at 10:00 am to recce ridge to 6800m to see whether this route possible and returned to C1. 24th at 1:00 am from C1 and 9:05 am on top. Had fixed 2 pitches of rope at bottom of wall in case no snow on descent, but actually there was no snow and did not use rope. Technically difficult in mid-section of face above big snowfield on rock and thin ice leading to couloir of 60 degrees leading to ridge - avalanche slope of whole wall was 60-70 degrees. 1st part of ridge also problem: narrow snow ridge, with one section badly corniced. Ridge's first sector 90 degrees to small plateau and then 60 degrees. From this first plateau to second and bigger plateau at 7000m not so difficult or dangerous and from there on to top not difficult at all. 24th direct from top to ABC at 8:00 pm. Climb finished.

Urban Golob got pneumonia on 6th Oct in ABC, left for Namche and couldn't return to mountain. Samec 2 frostbitten toes during climb.