원정 개요

C4 sited 29th April but slept in only on 16th May. Wind drove them back on 29th April and winds kept them below the col till 16th May, when pitched then 2 tents: was Karl, Annie and 2 Sherpas (Jay Sieger tired and stayed C2). 16th night Karl not well. New Zealanders and Snowbird's Hillary and MacKenzie started up but Annie took so long to get ready, others 2 hrs ahead of her and she did not want to go alone. Karl and Annie went down later in morning separately: Annie with New Zealanders Ball and Hall and Karl with his team's Sherpas, Kami Tenzing and Mapea Sherpa. Karl left his equipment at col but down to C2, then BC to rest.

Jay and Austrian Kurt Stuewe went to Col on 18th and started up in night and got to 8500-8600m (below S Summit) and turned back exhausted, bad snow conditions and running out of oxygen. Had used oxygen, food and tents of Snowbird expedition at col (so when Snowbird people got there, found some supplies gone). Karl up again on 22 May from BC. Left BC 25th together, but did not stay together below BC.

Was not an expedition but collection of people; Karl was asked to be leader in Kathmandu by trekking agent because original leader unable to come to Nepal; Karl was asked because he was the first member to arrive in Kathmandu and "there has to be a leader before you can go to the mountain." He didn't know the other members before arriving at BC and really knew little about their movements afterwards.

4 June 89 - Sieger confirmed he reached 8600m on 19 May with Austrian, then oxygen apparatus problems for both and Kurt's crampon broken.


Allain Hirsh - 18 May 1989

Jacques Buret to C4 for help Yugos
Allain Hirsh to C3
Will try but for Sherpa support above C4
Tired, sick from Tilicho and left early after sick
To C2 - sick and on way home
To C3 - still trying
Difficult relations/communications amongst team.