원정 개요

BC at bank of Sabje Khola's glacier (highest BC site in this area)
C1 in icefall below rib
C2 on rib, 1/3 of way up it
C3 at top of rib on upper snowfall of face.

10th Oct 6am Schinhofen and Sirdar Pemba Norbu set out for top from C3. Waist-deep snow enroute but got to top at 3:15 pm. In descent extremely exhausted by deep snow and got back to C3 at 8 pm. Should have gone down to C2. Brimmer and Dawa Onchu were in C3 for summit bid - very crowded but Brimmer and Dawa could do cooking which other 2 too tired to do. 11th Oct all four down. Brimmer and Schinhofen in C2 which Brimmer with pneumonia developing.

2nd summit bid by Collet and Kosty on 13th Oct. BC to C1 with 4 Sherpas on 14th. 5th all 6 into icefall which had drastically changed. Tried to put in new route but too dangerous to proceed so had to turn back at 5640m. C3 had to be left in place. Left BC on 18th.

Lots of avalanches on face; 35m overhanging ice climbs at 6700m; upper part of rib is knife-edge and steep; lots of vertical ice climbing even below C1. Fixed 1600m of rope altogether.