원정 개요

BC at junction of Lhonak and Broken Glacier
ABC at moraine in right side of Chhyatsunda Glacier
C1 at moraine on right side of glacier below Drohmo
C2 at 5750m on ice of glacier (near point 5678m on HMG map)
C3 at bottom of rock towers.

Had to fix rope at start of Chhyatsunda Glacier to cross gorges into Glacier for porters. Had made recce up Lhonak Glacier into Chijima Glacier of HMG map on 22nd Oct but saw ridge approach too long. Took lot of time to eastablish ABC because only 2 members. C3 on mixed rock and ice (alternating rock and ice) at base of rock tower south of point 6987m HMG map on Tibetan border. 11th Nov summit attempt. Had fixed ropes from 6000m to 6200m on 4 Nov, then down to BC to rest and back to C3 on 10th. 11th Nov both members climbed right side of rock tower all day in alpine style to 6500m to serac area with powder snow which was impossible to fix, so down to C3 after dark. 12th tried left side of rock tower below overhanging seracs but again powder snow - got to 6400m and again back to C3. 12th to C2 and 14th climbed north faces of a peak 6095m south-southwest of Janak up broken ice glacier and then deep (1.5m) snow and back to C2. That night 4:00 am seracs avalanched off west side of Janak. Blast damaged tent and all day west and southwest side of Janak avalanching, so decided to leave and down to BC on 15th. 20th from BC north to junction of Lhonak and Chijima Glaciers and climbed west peak of a mountain with 2 peaks; west peak 6196m on HMG map climbed its south face of rock then ice to SW Ridge to summit on ice. At night Lhonak village at 1:00 am of 21st. Sherpas never went higher than C1, not to smaller peaks at all.

"1st part of Janak was technical and we climbed it; 2nd half dangerous and we didn't climb that." Despite seracs would be possible to climb with more manpower and rope. Technical part "very nice." Both members "would like to come back and finish what we started."