원정 개요

Never reached Gangchempo BC and did no climbing except on trekking peak, Naya Khanga.

Plan was to acclimatize on Naya Khanga (Ganjala Chuli) and then climb Ganchempo but Pemba Gyalzen, who had another commitment and had to leave advised not enough time to do both mountains, so aimed at Ganchempo.

Went east along Langtang Khola to Kangjin Kharka/Kwangjin Gompa, crossed to south side of khola and on east to Pangrima, where Mann started getting ill (altitude sickness); here stopped and Mann and Haughey crossed river while Pemba Gyalzen went up valley to the south, gained 200m and judged to take 2 days to BC 500m above Pangrima so no time for that; same day 17 Nov 2 members returned to Kangjin Kharka where Pemba Gyalzen thought Ganchempo impossible to climb its South Face and glacier below covered with snow meant crevasses in glacier would be hidden and face dangerous from avalanching. Members had underestimated the mountain; would take 10 days and fixed ropes.

19th decided had to acclimatize so climbed behind Kangjin Kharka to 4700m and then go Naya Kanga. 20th Mann had not slept well and bad throat and left expedition. Haughey and Pemba moved BC except to base of Nura Khangde at 4100m north-northwest of mountain. 22nd up from high camp and nearly summited 6 hours later and 4 hours later to high camp; had climbed NE Ridge and stopped 10m below summit because ridge now very narrow knife edge with dangerous cornices.

Sherpa:
Pemba Gyalzen (Cho Oyu X2 and Everest X4)