원정 개요

BC near lake west of West Col
C1 at West Col
C2 at foot of SE Ridge.

1st summit attempt [on Oct 8] by Erdman and Van Hoek for C2 at 2:00 am on to 7000m BC at 5500m near lake west of West Col. Too dangerous without fixed rope to go higher in deep snow, which they had used a lot of energy to make trail, and back to C2 and down to BC (Erdman and Van Hoek to C1 that night, both exhausted).

2nd summit attempt [on Oct 11] by Roos, Groenveld, Van den Broek, Van Rooijen, Schielen, Haster and 3 Sherpas; left C2 at 1:00 am, got to about 7000m, same problem that confronted first party and all down to C1 at different times. Now Roos had discovered both hands (fingers) badly frostbitten, evacuated from BC on 11th (fingers frostbitten because mittens very big and had to take them off to use hands; toes slightly frostbitten too).

3rd summit bid from C2 about 12 Oct: Erdman, Groenveld, Haster (turned around 6750m, tired), Schielen (to 7000m, not well), Van den Broek, Van Hoek, Van Rooijen and 3 Sherpas, Salon, Dawa and Santa.

Summit party left C2 at 4:00 am, on 12th Erdman, Groenveld, Van den Broek, Van Hoek, Schieler and Van Rooijen, Dawa, Dawa "Salon" and Santa Gurung. Van Rooijen turned back at 6500m from throat problem, Schielen at 7000m tired, rest of party to top at 7:50 am to 8:15 am.

One difficult steep section between 7000m to 7150m. Tomas fixed rope from BC to North Col (150m) from C2 to top (300m). Summiters to C1 and 1 member to BC; member to BC was Erdman, who skied from fore-summit at 6900m to 5600m (with one break in C1 for tea); had reached summit at 7:50 am and in BC about 2:00 pm. Now climb finish since team successful.

Van de Reep and Liefers left exepdition after death of porter Pasang Sherpa who died from acute pulmonary edema while descending to base camp after crossing Sherpani Col and West Col.