원정 개요

BC at normal site (1st this season to make BC)
C1 a little into Cwm (above normal site)
C2 at usual site
C3 on Lhotse Face
C4 at Col.

Made BC too early but sirdar convinced McConnell they needed to be first and early in. Took 10 days to make icefall route; icefall in bad shape when team arrived and kept moving throughout season and got worse in mid-May as got warmer; "last falls" C1 had become a free standing serac" says Berg. Had to go to close to W Shoulder which had little snow avalanche but having ice walls were potentially dangerous. Didn't start working on icefall with 2 New Zealanders until 20th March. C1 established 4th April because of bad weather; a bit late making C3 because ran out of ropes.

1st summit attempt [May 2] from Col at 5:00 am by Berg, Fischer and Jamieson with Berg and Fischer to 27,500 ft and Jamieson to 27,000 ft; turned back by deep snow but nice day. With Sherpa support could have been successful through getting pretty tired already.

2nd summit bid by McConnell and 3 others but got only to C3.

Third bid from Col on 14th by Berg, Jamieson and Fischer after 2 nights at col with Roddy Mackenzie (Australian) and Kurt Stuewe (Austrian): at midnight on 13/14th 3 Americans set out for top (Roddy down with toothache, Kurt tired and stayed in Camp) and Jamieson and Berg to 27,500 ft and Fischer to 28,000 ft; turned back cold in poor visibility and tired. Fischer at one point radioed he was lost; Jamieson and Berg back in C4 5:00 am and Fischer at 8:30 am.

Final summit bid on 16th April. From the Col were McConnell, Phu Dorje, Ang Danu and Ricardo Torres Nava but immediately separated: McConnell moved more slowly. Ang Pasang Sherpa who should have been going with McConnell didn't leave Col because of broken crampon. McConnell at 27,000 ft realized had little chance despite its being a mild morning; he was running out strength (had gotten to Col at 5:00 pm 15th) and returned to Col. 3 others got below S Summit and reported 11:30 am would return to Col because of deep snow but decided to go on and summited at 3:30 pm on better terrain; Torres and Ang Danu back at col 6:00 pm and reported Phu Dorje had gone ahead and then disappeared. None of 3 attempts were roped attempts; may have reached 27,500 ft and fallen in their of descent.

Fischer found a body at base of gullies just above Col - not frozen, had not been there very long because this is avalanche (chute area); must have been Yugoslav because body could have not have been there longer than few days and was a big man.

Sungdare left BC drunk and again drinking at C1; would get out of control. Finally left expedition, 7th or 8th May apparently upset that had been delegated as support for McConnell, whose success was somewhat unlikely. By the time Torres Nava summitted, expedition out of steam; had been at BC 60+ days.

Oxygen used sleeping at C4 (half bottle/man/night) and climbing above C4 by all members and Sherpas.


Van Snick - 26 May 1989

Ricardo is very strong and worked "very hard" on expedition - he deserved summit.

Berg, Jamison and Fischer didn't accept him in their summit party and that's why they failed. They needed such a strong man when they found deep snow above Col.

Sat for 1-1/2 hours on glacier just above Col waiting for light because had lost other's headlights and didn't know where to go; got frostbite in right fingers while waiting. When daylight came moved up but was probably 2 hours behind them; reached 27000 ft and then turned back: tired, felt shouldn't be climbing alone. Fell 50-60 ft. Ricardo also fell from S South summit 100 ft and arrested fall with ice axe. Phu Dorje got ahead of Danu below S Summit in clouds. Ricardo behind, fell 100 ft and he and Danu came together. Found Phu Dorje's ice axe upright in snow where Sherpas came up with tea just above C4, Phu Dorje missing. Body seen at about 27,500 ft by Kurt Stuewer, Jay Sieger, Gary Ball, et al later but Danu and Ricardo too late to have daylight to search and next day too tired; other Sherpas did not go up.

Saw body in red jacket and blue pants. Saw body in red face down with red rucksack on back just below old C5 at about 8300m. Yugoslavs now agree that's their missing member.

Phu Dorje to Everest summit last autumn with Americans. Icefall more dangerous than seen in past years says Danu were not roped together. Others besides Ricardo said not to, why Ricardo doesn't know.

McConnell may have altitude record for 57-year-old on Everest.