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Himalayan Guides Ama Dablam Expedition 2004

Ama Dablam · 2004 · 가을 (3) · UK

원정 개요

Henry Todd

BC 15 Oct 22-27 Oct at 4600m
ABC 20 Oct at 5200m
C1 at 22-23 Oct at 5600m
C3 at 27-38 Oct at 6250m

Todd moved "his teams to mountain after others had left or one leaving and try to have as little impact on available space for camps; has BC in own site, minimized usage space available to us and not try to send flood of people up at same time or part of tents left empty much of the time." Used ABC because of crowding at C1. Only 5-6 people summiting at a time, minimizing crowding.

Sherpa summiters:
Pasang Dawa (aka Pa Dawa), Pangboche, Everest X5 Lhotse X1, Cho Oyu X4
Gurmin Dorje, Pangboche, Everest X3

Members came to BC and left at different times. Some never met each other; not one team. Todd provided all facilities for members to come and go up mountain and go as they pleased.


Maegan Carney's information:

Before I went to Ama Dablam, I went to Lobuche East and Island Peak.

I climbed [on Ama Dablam] alone but camped with David Mellor; David Mellor was accompanied by Gurmin Sherpa from Pangboche. David summited at 11 am. Tim Calder and Guy Hembury summited at 12 noon with Pasang Dawa. Clear morning with light wind, very cold. By 10:30 clouds had filled the valleys. By noon, cloudy skies with short periods of visability.


David Wright - 22 June 2006 (by email)

After consultation, the results are as follows. Irene Shorhadze, Ellen Miller, Chris Brand and Gurmin Dorje summitted together at 11.45 am on 4th November 2004, Pasang Dawa summitted at 11:55 approximately, and I summitted 20 minutes after the main group at 12:05.


[Joby Ogwyn, Brendan Leech and Allessandra Pasquino climbed part way up Ama Dablam to film the mountain.]

  • 내부 원정 ID4775
  • 원본 EXPIDAMAD04328
  • 대장Henry Todd
  • 루트 (Route)SW Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도6814m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 32명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Henry Barclay ToddUKLeader---
Jaime Enrique Avila VelezEcuadorClimber성공--
Michael H. BahamondeUSAClimber성공--
Adrian John BallingerUKClimber성공--
Christopher BrandUKClimber성공--
Philippe BurletFranceClimber성공--
Timothy Miles Halcott (Tim) CalderUKClimber성공--
Maegan CarneyUSAClimber성공--
Raleigh CoburnUSAClimber성공--
David J. (Smiler) CuthbertsonUKClimber---
Joseph A. De FrancisUSAClimber---
David DewarUKClimber---
Susan Harper ToddUKClimber---
Guy Alexander HemburyUKClimber성공--
Philip HoganUKClimber---
Brendan LeechUSAClimber---
Monte Scott LunacekUSAClimber성공--
George David MellorUKClimber성공--
Bradley E. MeringUSAClimber성공--
Ellen Elizabeth MillerUSAClimber성공--
Stephen NewmanUKClimber---
Alexander (Sandy) OgilvieUKClimber---
Joby David OgwynUSAClimber---
Allessandra PasquinoItalyClimber---
Anthony Victor (Vic) SaundersUKClimber성공--
Philippe ScheideckerFranceClimber성공--
Irene ShorhadzeGeorgiaClimber성공--
Neal James ShortUKClimber성공--
Gregory Peter (Greg) VadasdiUSAClimber성공--
David S. (Blyth) WrightUKClimber성공--
Gurmin Dorje (Girmi Dorje) SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공--
Pasang Dawa (Pa Dawa, Pando) SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공--

출처·참고문헌

Hawley, Elizabeth · 2004 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200539202/Asia-Nepal-Khumbu-Region-Mahalangur-Himal-Ama-Dablam-Crowds-on-Normal-Route · 2004 · 웹사이트 (5) ·