원정 개요

C4 at South Col.

Route had been changed from S Pillar to normal route before Groselj and Bozic reached BC 15th April. Pillar dry of snow and too dangerous and team of Macedonians not so strong climbers. 5 Sherpas carried loads to Col 5th May and camp pitched 9th May when Bozic, Groselj, Ilievski, Jovcevski, Sonam and Ajiwa arrived there. 10th May 3:00 am 5 men (excluding Jovcevski, who reached col at 11:00 pm on 9th and now too tired) left C4 to go to summit; went very slowly without rope; 3 Yugoslavs used oxygen, Aijwa used only when resting (his bottle really extra one for Ilievski), Sonam none. At first excellent snow conditions, warm, not windy; on narrow ridge to S Summmit bad snow. 4:30 pm at S Summit. Again good conditions and at main summit at 5:30 pm to 7:30 pm (Groselj oxygen finished at S Summit and was lost) and met other 2 Yugoslavs at top of Hillary Step). Sherpas first at C4 at 9:30 pm, Groselj at 2:00 am & Bozic at 2:30 am. Bozic without oxygen from summit and slower than Ilievski, who disappeared at 8500m. Bozic waited at S Col one day and night, very tired but excellent visibility. Down from Col to BC on 12th May. Jovcevski, Groselj and 2 Sherpas to C2 on 11th May. Probably Ilievski fell down E Face. After accident, climb abandoned (some instead in Lhotse attempt).

Only 5 Macedonians reached C3, 2 to C4 [Ilievski and Jovcevski].

Rob Hall, New Zealand expedition leader, said 28 May 1989: the two summit Sherpas on this expedition carried 2 oxygen bottles each for members, but used none themselves while breaking trail through deep snows.

Ilievski when descending yesterday at 9 pm from 8044m is missing; 4 others are this afternoon in C2. Search team left BC this afternoon.

This evening BC radio.