원정 개요

17th Oct was problem with so many people on route above at yellow tower below C2 above C3: Amical leader and 4 members, 15 members from Mazur's team behind Goeggelmann very slow climbers and necessary for Goeggelmann and Mazur's Reilly pulling up rucksacks of these slow people who didn't know how to use jummars properly, tried to climb faces, but fell in the ropes. This greatly delayed Amical arrival at C2, so past it to C3 because this delay. Bob and Forstner turned back just above C2. Goeggelmann's people reached C3 3:00-3:30 pm while Goeggelmann just at dark at 6:00 pm because he was helping his other 4 clients, 2 of whom stopped at C2, and Weninger 6:30 pm at C3. When Goeggelmann was in BC Oct 15 had conferred with other leader and Sherpas about fixing rope above C3; route had been fixed to C3 but not above.

18th Oct early morning talked with Sirdar Chuldim and learned not enough rope available to finish fixing ropes above C3 to top all the way. Going up on 18th Goeggelmann, Boner, Kastning, Kasmanhuber, Kramer, Weninger from C3. At about 6550m Kasmanhuber turned back with cold fingers; others now told confusion about rope being fixed up above and route not fixed this day. Boner on top with other teams member and Sherpas without rope. Goeggelmann waiting for Kastning, Kramer and Weninger to arrive at end of fixed rope; now at 6750m and then turned back because route not fixed and all back to C2.