원정 개요

BC at normal site
C2 in Western Cwm
High point on SW Face.

On 10 April by helicopter KTM to Pheriche and same day to BC with "little headache." 11th and 12th in BC. 13th through Icefall, which was in very bad condition (like 1982) very dangerous, moving often up through it for acclimatization but vowed only one more trip up Icefall. 13th and 14th slept in C1 but reached C2 on 14th. 15th up up face to 7200m with no rock fall at all, strangely, on rock face to right of Bonington route. 16th down from C3 to BC and wait for good weather: very windy. In BC 16-21 April. 22 April up from BC to make entire ascent in 24 hours. Left BC 4:30 pm, in C1 at 6:00 pm with help from others (in C1 team from Americans), in C2 at 8:30 pm and stayed with New Zealanders 2 hours to take drinks and rest. Left C2 at 10:30 pm and 3:00 am 23rd at 7800m in almost full moonlight. All the time windy and saw many big clouds coming from west. At 7800m was just below cold and was very windy which affected his eyes (dried then) because couldn't wear dark goggles at night; eyes painful. "So I came down BC" which reached 9:00 am 23rd. Americans gave eye medicine and 24th to Namche, 25th to Lukla and 26th to KTM. Icefall too dangerous to go up again and wanted to have knee fixed in hospital in France (knee locks sometimes especially in cold). Wants to be in good condition for Sept, when will climb Everest and Lhotse (West Face) in same day alone while climbing, but with support people.

Devouassoux body found at bottom of Icefall; identified by clothing, identification of Chamonix guide and mumified face (body cremated in Khumbu 17 May and ashes scattered).

"I didn't want to stay in mountain like Devouassoux." Turned back because bad weather and survives. With good weather (no cloud and wind) would have been on summit at 1:00 pm on 23rd and down to South Col.

"I think I have enough experience - not the first time I don't climb to top - we have to accept it."

Leave KTM 5 May and return in Aug (Thamserku Trekking, Sherpa Hotel).


Batard - 9 Apr 1989

He arrived from Annapurna and Pokhara yesterday; hopes to fly to Lukla tomorrow for Everest.

"Now I have time" to climb Everest; got little acclimatization on Annapurna so needs 7-10 days acclimatization on Everest.

"Better to go to Everest quickly" because of objective dangers on Annapurna and with troublesome knee there are doctors at Everest BC.