원정 개요

C1 at top of Icefall
C2 in Western Cwm
C3 same as Koreans (400m above bergschrund)
C4 at right of pillar
High point on SE Ridge.

When arrived at BC, Japanese had just fixed the icefall with ladders and rope (paid to Japanese to fix icefall and keep it open), so could go right through. Had good relations with S Pillar Koreans and used each others tents. Koreans fixed ropes on pillar which French used. Pillar route is very good: safe and direct. C4 not in normal place: had left it to Sherpas to pick site, but big mistake as in middle of slope, exposed to wind and uncomfortable.

24th Sept 1st attempt from C4 by 3 members in cold and windless day and followed Koreans to S summit. Had arrived C4 late and had bad night and Sherpas then sick. Gouvy had to carry snowboard himself; reached 8400m and turned back, exhausted (previous night no sleeping bags and 1 tent). Gouvy descended to C2 on snowboard entire distance from 8400m, highest place anyone started snow band with 2-3 hrs rest in C4; maximum 1 hr snow boarding total.

25th Flouret tried summit alone from C4 but couldn't find sunglasses for ascent and turned back about 8400-8450m at mid-morning because no glasses and down to C2.

28th 4 members (De Gayardon's first time using crampons) planning to go up from C4 but descended down in snowstorm and to C2. 2 big avalanches off Lhotse Face but no damage.

8th Oct 4 members wanted to go up from C4 but again snowing and in clouds and strong wind so down instead (tents at C4 had been destroyed when arrived day before); down to BC 10th Oct.

Ghilini and Charlet head cold and fever and left BC 13th Oct. Waited in Lobuche to learn about sky diving; decided no chance and expedition over 20th Oct. 1 or 2 Oct the two sky divers left BC by helicopter to come to KTM for sky diving onto summit. Had practiced twice in late Aug in Banepa area, but defense ministry upset (at sometime was too near Boeing jet), so when Gouvy in KTM 2nd Oct, tried to get permit but never obtained; pilot was grounded (and still is).

Abert and Fouques left BC 8th Oct - other commitments.

The team found their South Pillar route on the right of the pillar itself "very good -- safe and direct." But their C4 at 7850m was badly sited, they found, in the middle of a slope and so exposed to wind. Although no one reached the summit, one member Bruno Gouvy, carried a snowboard to 8400m on 24 Sept and made a snowboard descent from that altitude (believed to be the highest altitud anyone had ever begun snowboarding) to C2 at 6400m; total elapsed time snowboarding was one hour, but he rested for 2 or 3 hours in C4 on the way down. He and Patrick De Gayardon had originally planned to parachute onto the summit from a small airplane and then snowboard down, but the Nepalese authorities refused permission for the sky dive.