원정 개요

BC at Pangri Glacier
C1 at Pangri Glacier
C2 at col on West Ridge.

Bad weather from 25th every late morning and afternoon; wind, mist, cloud, snowfall, very cold (in C2 tent -20 degrees in morning), so couldn't continue climb after 11:00 am. Had difficulty finding route on glacier from BC to C1: small icefall (400m high) difficult to find way and lost one day here. On 30th Audra, Damilano, Delapierre, Magaud, Mahe, Paulin, Temple, Vernerey to high point; 31st Grobel, Guerin and Repiquet. All down to BC on 31st. Now no more time and all members very tired from fighting bad weather and coldness in early morning; no more pleasure. Fixed ropes on glacier BC to C1 (50m) and 750m from C2 to high point.

5 Nepalese were in training, leaving expedition climbing - were Sherpas, Tamang, Rai and Newars - difficult for them.