원정 개요

BC at foot of via Phu Khola
ABC at flat part of moraine
C1 at middle of glacier
C2 at 6000m at small plateau, just below W Ridge on W Ridge South Face.

Between C1 and C2 serious exposure to avalanche since much deep snow so moved to left, with technically difficult steep (60 degrees) pitches and fixed about 500m ropes here in higher snow almost hip-deep and difficult to make route to C2. Never got to West Ridge because of depth of snow. Sherpas went up to fix ropes to ridge but got only to 6100m when leader told them to come down because might start avalanching onto C2. In C2 were all 9 members and 4 Sherpas (two days later more snowfall). Went to BC on 12th.

Maoists stopped team just before Jagat on Marshyangdi, demanded Rs 100 per day but when asked how this should be calculated, said they would visit camp that night but failed to turn up.