원정 개요

BC at normal site
ABC on North Face
C1 on North Face
C2 on North Face (below "sickle")
High point at C3 site on North face left of "sickle".

One weak from arrival at BC and ABC because snowfall 2-3 days and afraid of avalanche. Again snowfalling after occupying C1 and again waited for snow to stabilize. From C1 to C2 fixed 28 ropes (50m each) and few days snowfall and avalanche broke ropes and had to refix. 10 Oct from C1 led by Nazuka, Yamamoto, Sato and Nishimura last seen at 11:00. Now big ice block and broke loose from glacier on opt of "Sickle" at above 7000m and fell onto sloping snowfield and set off big avalanches with block sliding too. Avalanche killed Nizuka and Sato by taking them 500 vertical meters down mountain. Yamamoto and Nishimura reached their prone bodies at 12:30 pm and Yamamoto confirmed they were dead and both to ABC, but Yamamoto moved bodies out of avalanche area first. Yamamoto returned to ABC by helicopter on 18 Oct with 9 Sherpas to recover bodies reached them on 20th under 3 meters of snow and helicopter again to ABC 22 Oct to remove bodies and Sherpas and Yamamoto. Bodies cremated in KTM.

The site for C3 at 7300m was reached by Dawa Sherpa and Ang Phuri Lama on 10 Oct.

[Ed. Avalanche accident estimated about 6000m (between C1 and C2)]