원정 개요

BC above Samagaon (Mattle arrived 16 Oct after trek)
C1 above 5720m above rock on small ridge
C2 at 6850m col below face
Stopped at summit plateau.

Hard work for us: we are 3 Sherpas. Reached C2 site on 24th after many days of snowfall, then avalanche came on 14 Oct midnight, damaged 3 tents (could no longer be used), so down to Samagaon on 15th. On 12th night had already had avalanche shaken tents and they fled to Samagaon that night. Both times tents hit by blasts of avalanches.

Returned on 13th and 17th Oct from Samagaon. Now weather very good but 1 meter snow at BC but snow danger above it and big avalanche danger. Job to open track again; tried several times to get to C1 and C2 and finally reached C2 3 Nov after again heavy snowfall and tracks again had to be made over. 4th Mattle and Jungmann left 3:00 am for summit bid in very nice weather and at C3 site at 7:00 am then very strong wind, very difficult to stand against it (very cold wind). Had not intended to make a C3 but to keep climbing to top but now impossible to continue, so down to BC same day, taking C2 and C1 tents with them.

Same day also decided to try again for top in non-stop ascent. 7th at 1:00 am pm from BC all 3 members, stopped in Japanese C2 to cook (Japanese resting in BC) for 2 hours, then again up and reached 7100m at 3:30 am 8th but now strong wind very cold wind and again impossible to continue climb, so now really abandoned climb. Retreated to BC at 9:00 am on 8th.